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Capuchinbirds are named for their supposed similarity to the Capuchin monks -- tonsured and in brown "robes". Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
Who could have guessed, when we spent our 12 days in Guyana, that the world would change so completely within a few short months of our return? How lucky we were to have had the chance to explore the varied habitats of this largely untrammeled country before travel became an impossibility. And explore we did, from the rice fields, meandering rivers and bustling city parks of the coast to the wild green and gold heart of the country -- the vast Iwokrama forest and the equally immense Rupununi savanna. Guyana is still a newbie in the ecotourism game. While this can lead to some small frustrations -- WiFi barely functions, lodgings are sometimes rudimentary, and air-conditioning is non-existent "down country", for example -- it also provides some wonderful moments. Where else can you visit the number one tourist attraction in a country and be the only people in the whole park, for example? Where can you stand in the middle of a country's main north-south highway and not have to move out of the way for more than a vehicle or two for hours at a time? Where can you wake in the night and hear not a single human-made sound: no radio or car engine or siren or passing plane? Add wildlife to that wilderness and wow -- what an experience!
We started our tour along the coast, venturing southeast to the placid Mahaica River and the watery stretches of Ogle Beach. Hoatzins growled from riverside bushes, a pair of Rufous Crab Hawks patrolled their (sadly) recently-razed territory, brilliant Scarlet Ibis trotted across soupy mudflats, Blood-colored Woodpeckers hitched up tree trunks, Black-capped Donacobius chortled beside our boat, Wing-barred Seedeaters twitched through tall grass and rice fields, and we enjoyed a scrumptious "second breakfast" of roti and curried chicken (or curried potatoes and lentils) on our boatman's comfortable porch. At the crowded Georgetown Botanical Garden, we added a bevy of others, including two tiny White-bellied Piculets and another Blood-colored Woodpecker crawling along branches, a wary Toco Toucan peering down from a treetop, a noisy quartet of Festive Parrots, two Long-winged Harriers and a Zone-tailed Hawk drifting lazily overhead, a Great Horned Owl tucked into a treetop, a Cinnamon Attila, and a half-dozen West Indian Manatees slurping grassy offerings from the fingers of obliging park visitors.
Then it was off to the sprawling rainforest that stretches across six million acres of Guyana's middle. One million of those acres are protected parkland, and we spent six nights there: two each at three different lodges. Where to start with our many highlights there? Maybe with the impressive, roaring drop of Kaieteur Falls -- and the fact that we were the only people (other than the rangers and our pilot) in the park on the day we visited. Maybe with the vibrant orange glow of the posturing male Guianan Cocks-of-the-rocks on their mossy leks. Maybe with the bright female Crimson Fruitcrow that FINALLY appeared at the edge of the Atta clearing at the very last moment, when we were about to depart for our next lodge. Maybe with the pair of Bronzy Jacamars that made repeated hunting sallies from branches just over our heads. Perhaps with the Spotted Antpitta that serenaded us from an eye-level branch, or with the White-winged Potoo that ghosted over our heads to land along the roadside, showing that distinctive wing, or with the slitty-eyed Rufous Potoo that rocked gently on its dayroost. Perhaps with the Fork-tailed Woodnymph that made regular visits into the bar at the Atta Rainforest Lodge to visit the feeder placed on the counter.
Capuchinbirds rocked and mooed on their canopy leks. Gray-winged Trumpeters played follow-the-leader, trotting single file across shadowy tracks with their wings shuffling. Black-banded Owls called from a darkening roadside, and a Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl blinked in the spotlight beam. A Tiny Hawk shared a treetop with a Waved Woodpecker. Screaming Blue-and-yellow Macaws hung at unexpected angles in a fruiting tree. Mixed flocks of "ant things" -- studies in gray and rust, with subtle differences in wing bars and spots and chin patches and song -- whirled around us on forest trails. A male Guianan Red-Cotinga flew in and landed on a nearby branch for a breathtaking handful of seconds, his red-speckled plumage gleaming against the shady background. Two Double-toothed Kites followed their "beaters" -- a busy troop of Wedge-capped Capuchins through a patch of white sand forest. An out-of-sight "dead thing" brought a host of opportunists to the ground, including adult and immature King Vultures. A family of Purple-throated Fruitcrows made repeated forays across the Atta clearing. Colorful tanager flocks swarmed quickly into fruiting trees, and just as quickly out again. A female Fiery-tailed Awlbill sat quietly atop a nearby bush. And everywhere, the ringing calls of Screaming Pihas echoed through the forest.
We finished our tour in the Rupununi, where the vistas stretched to the horizon and uncountable marshy oases brought waterbirds into unexpected places. Stately Jabirus stalked the ponds, or flapped ponderously across the sky. Least and Lesser Nighthawks danced over a green marsh and a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl serenaded us as we sipped our rummy "sundowners". A tiny Crested Doradito led us on a (not so) merry chase before finally revealing itself. Fork-tailed Flycatchers threw themselves after insect prey. Scratchy-voiced Bicolored Wrens twitched through scruffy trees. Crested Bobwhites scurried along dirt roads in fast-moving groups. An Aplomado Falcon paused atop a shrub before launching itself back into swift flight. A fluttering stream of Band-tailed Nighthawks flew over the Rupununi River, with another stream of Greater Bulldog Bats below them. A slumbering Giant Anteater awoke with a start and trotted off in search of a quieter resting place. And a last-morning visit to the Brazilian border added the range-restricted Hoary-throated Spinetail to our list.
Thanks for joining me on our journey to this fascinating place -- and for coping with the inevitable glitches that come with traveling in an emerging country. Thanks also to our local guides, drivers and boatmen, including Ron, John, Jasper, Marissa, Rensford, Naresh and Shandi. I hope to go exploring with you all again someday, when travel becomes possible again. In the meantime, stay healthy and well, and keep birding!
-- Megan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Spix's Guan is the larger, greener and more common of the two guan species regularly seen on this tour. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
GREAT TINAMOU (Tinamus major) – Our only "seen" tinamou -- and that wasn't for long! We flushed one off the trail at Atta while headed for the canopy walkway, and flushed another on the Harpy trail on our way out to the nest site. As usual, we heard far more than we saw, recording them most days in the forest.
CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) – We heard the clear whistles of this species (sounding rather like someone running their finger around the rim of a crystal glass) several times along the main road late one afternoon while waiting for it to get dark enough for our owl quarries to make an appearance. [*]
LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) – Heard -- quite closely -- along the Georgetown-Lethem road. [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) – We heard several calling around the oxbow lake we visited along the Rupununi River one evening to see the water lilies unfurling, and heard more along the banks of the river itself. This species is particularly common near water. [*]
VARIEGATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus variegatus) – We heard the loud, clear whistles of this species several times while waiting in vain for the Harpy Eagle to make an appearance at its nest site. [*]
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata) – Wary flocks stood alertly in puddles all along the narrow causeway road in to Yupukari.
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis) – A flock of 25 or so flew past while we birded beside the road in the Rupununi savanna en route to the Manari Ranch on the last morning.
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata) – Folks in some of the boats saw a single bird along the Essequibo on our way to Turtle Mountain, and the late stayers there had another trio on the return journey. Truly wild birds are typically found in forested areas.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
VARIABLE CHACHALACA (Ortalis motmot) – Our first gave us a rousing chorus, then glided from one side of the Georgetown-Lethem road to the other, high over our heads, late one evening. We had much better looks at another in an open Cecropia tree along the same road one morning. Some taxonomists separate the subspecies found in Guyana (motmot) from its southern cousin, naming this one Little Chachalaca.
Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock is definitely one of the sought-after species in Guyana. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
MARAIL GUAN (Penelope marail) – One in a tree along the Turtle Mountain trail, with a couple of others along the Atta entrance drive. This is the smaller and browner of the guans we see on this tour.
SPIX'S GUAN (GRANT'S) (Penelope jacquacu granti) – Like the previous species, Spix's Guan is primarily arboreal -- and that's where we saw them, particularly in the fruiting Cecropia trees around the clearings at IRL and Atta. This is larger, greener and longer-legged than the Marail Guan.
BLACK CURASSOW (Crax alector) – Quite common in the Iwokrama forest this year, including several pairs with half-grown chicks around Atta, where the cooks threw out uneaten rice for them.
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
CRESTED BOBWHITE (Colinus cristatus) – Doug heard one calling at Surama, but it took until our afternoon drive to the Rupununi savanna to actually see one. Then we saw dozens well, scurrying back and forth across the bumpy dirt road we took in to the village of Yupukari. We saw others elsewhere in the savanna over the next couple of days.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – Some colorfully mixed flocks of feral birds around Georgetown. [I]
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – A few around Hope Beach, on the coast, but our best views probably came in the Rupununi savanna -- particularly along the Rupununi River, where they were abundant.
SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa) – One sat atop a nearly leafless tree just across the river from the start of the Turtle Mountain trail, seen as we started to make our way back to the lodge.
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea) – As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw, but we did catch up with a pair along the Georgetown-Lethem road. Their pale eye and grayer plumage help to separate them from the next species -- as does their call.
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)
COMMON GROUND DOVE (Columbina passerina) – Particularly common in the savanna around the Surama Ecolodge, including a few patrolling under the cabins each morning. We had a few others near the Fairview airstrip, while watching the Blue-and-yellow Macaws.
PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND DOVE (Columbina minuta) – Two of these small, aptly-named doves perched in a tree near the restaurant where we stopped to get ice, on our way to Caiman House. This species lacks the "scaly" head and neck of the previous species.
RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) – Common and widespread along the coast and in the savanna, with others on the lawn at Iwokrama River Lodge.
Kaieteur Falls is the largest single drop waterfall in the world -- and we were the only people in the park (other than the rangers) to enjoy it on the day we visited. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
BLUE GROUND DOVE (Claravis pretiosa) – A male flew along the Rupununi River during our boat trip there, seen by folks in at least one of the boats.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) – Most common in the Surama savanna, including some trundling around with the Common Ground Doves under the cabins there. We had others at Manari Ranch and along the Georgetown-Lethem road, near where we found our White-winged Potoo.
GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla) – After poor views of our first (along the Turtle Mountain trail), and hearing them cooing on several days, we finally got reasonable views of one along the Harpy trail. This is more of a forest species than the similarly-plumaged White-tipped Dove.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) – Regular in the Rupununi savanna, including some sizable flocks along the narrow causeway road in to Yupukari.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major) – Some of the folks who headed back early from Turtle Mountain spotted some in the dense vegetation along the Essequibo River. Their large size and white eyes are distinctive.
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) – Regular in open areas along the coast, with others hopping through the grass at the Fairview airstrip (near Iwokrama River Lodge), in the savanna along the Buro-Buro trail and around Yupukari.
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta) – Some fine looks along the Mahaica River, where they proved to be quite confiding.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) – Surprisingly, we didn't catch up with this common and widespread species until we got to the forest near Surama. Our walk along the Buro-Buro trail turned up several, seen well as they foraged among the leaves.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
LEAST NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles pusillus) – Dozens flitted over a marshy spot in the Rupununi savanna as dusk approached (and we enjoyed our sundowners), providing nice comparison with the next species. Their small size and the bold white trailing edge to their wings made them easy to pick out.
LESSER NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles acutipennis) – Our best looks probably came in the Surama savanna, when we found one roosting on a branch in a tree right near the Buro-Buro trail. We saw them in good comparison with the previous species over the Rupununi savanna on the day we transferred to Yupukari; this species tends to fly higher than the Least Nighthawk does when hunting.
The bright orange bill of the Toco Toucan is pretty unmistakable! Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus) – A handful coursed over the Georgetown-Lethem road while we waited for it to get dark enough for the White-winged Potoo to make an appearance. Their very dark plumage (no white patches in the wing or tail) and distinctively short tails make them relatively easy to identify.
BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Nyctiprogne leucopyga) – A stream of birds flowed past as dusk fell along the Rupununi River. In the light of the spotlight, we could really see those white bands on the otherwise dark plumage.
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) – The long tail -- and the white tail feathers of the males -- make this one relatively easy to pick out from the smaller nightjars. We flushed a few off the roads on our early morning drive into the savanna to look for Giant Anteaters, and on the drive to the Brazilian border for those who went in search of Hoary-throated Spinetail and Rio Branco Antbird.
WHITE-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis cayennensis) – Nice scope studies of several resting on the ground under the trees at "Bird Island" -- a small copse of trees in the middle of the vast Rupununi savanna. We got to see the white outer tail feathers of the males when the birds shifted positions a few times.
LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca) – Great looks at a male on a day roost along the Essequibo River. First, we could see his long white undertail feathers, then (as he switched positions) we got a look at his uppertail and white wing patches.
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – One snoozed on a branch in a grove near Surama village, giving us a great chance to study it at our leisure. Through the scope, we could clearly see the notches in its eyelids that allow it to keep an eye on things without opening that huge eye -- potentially giving the game away that it's NOT just a tree stump after all.
COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus) – One along the Georgetown-Lethem road after dusk one evening returned my whistles almost immediately, and flew in for a closer look at us. Unfortunately, we never did find it once it had perched, and only spotted it again when it flew off.
WHITE-WINGED POTOO (Nyctibius leucopterus) – Fine scope studies of a wide-eyed bird high in a tree along the Georgetown-Lethem road at dusk one evening. That wide white wing patch was sure obvious! And he gave us a nice serenade as well.
RUFOUS POTOO (Nyctibius bracteatus) – Fabulous views of a bird snoozing on its day roost in the Iwokrama forest -- rocking gently back and forth every time the wind blew or someone stepped on a twig. This is the smallest of the potoos. Prior to the 1980s, few people had seen a live one!
Apodidae (Swifts)
WHITE-CHINNED SWIFT (Cypseloides cryptus) – Some of the group persisted long enough to see a few zooming around over Kaieteur Falls; the rest had dispersed to take pictures or to have a nibble.
Morning on the Atta canopy walkway. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris) – A big, chattering flock flew past as we birded along the border between savanna and forest on the Buro-Buro trail early on our morning in Surama. This is by far the largest of Guyana's swifts.
CHAPMAN'S SWIFT (Chaetura chapmani) – Our best views came in the clearing of the Iwokrama River Lodge, where we watched a huge flock pour out of a dead snag and head out over the forest.
BAND-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura spinicaudus) – The most common and widespread of the tour's swifts, seen on most days over the Iwokrama forest. The pale bar in their rump was particularly obvious when the birds banked against a dark background -- like the verdant forest.
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris) – Some of the group caught sight of at least one or two among a big flock of Band-rumped Swifts over the Georgetown-Lethem road one morning. In Guyana, this species tends to be less common than the previous. In nearby Trinidad, that's reversed!
WHITE-TIPPED SWIFT (Aeronautes montivagus) – A scattered flock zoomed back and forth across the face of Kaieteur Falls, looking tiny in comparison. With patience, I think we all saw their namesake white-tipped tails, and the white trailing edge of the male's wings.
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata) – Small groups zipped back and forth around Surama sometimes descending quite low -- as when they swooped over the savanna along the Buro-Buro trail. This species is strongly tied to the Moriche Palm.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
CRIMSON TOPAZ (Topaza pella) – A young male hunted over a stream along the Georgetown-Lethem road, returning again and again to the same small stick -- and keeping us entertained while we waited for the White-winged Potoo to make an appearance. We saw a female at another stream crossing further down the same road a few days later.
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) – A male foraged at a flowering tree along the Buro-Buro trail. This widespread species ranges from southern Mexico to southern Bolivia and Brazil.
PALE-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes leucurus) – Ron, Marissa and Jim saw one checking out some of the plants under the Harpy Eagle nest while we waited in vain for the star attraction to make an appearance.
LONG-TAILED HERMIT (Phaethornis superciliosus) – Daily around the Atta clearing, including some visiting the newly installed hummingbird feeders there.
REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber) – Daily around the Atta clearing, with others along the Georgetown-Lethem road. Typically, this common species is seen daily, but its numbers seemed (for some unknown reason) to be down somewhat.
Participant Tracy McLellan got this lovely portrait of the poorly-known Rufous Potoo in the Iwokrama Forest.
BLACK-EARED FAIRY (Heliothryx auritus) – A lucky few spotted one flicking along the edge of the clearing at the Iwokrama River Lodge one afternoon, but most had to wait until we got to Atta -- where we saw saw them daily. Their long white outer tail feathers and snowy white underparts make them easy to identify, even at a distance.
WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus guainumbi) – Those who headed towards the Brazilian border on our last morning watched at least one (and probably multiple) males visiting some flowering bushes near the road while we waited near our disabled vehicle.
FIERY-TAILED AWLBILL (Avocettula recurvirostris) – A female flitted among the flowers high in a tree along the Georgetown-Lethem road, showing the dark stripe on her belly as she twisted. A lucky few saw her distinctive bill shape in the scope when she perched briefly.
RUBY-TOPAZ HUMMINGBIRD (Chrysolampis mosquitus) – Ron and Cecelia saw a male in the Surama savanna. This little hummingbird can look almost black unless the light is hitting it from the right direction -- then it's dazzling!
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis) – A female visited some of the flowers in a hedge near Naresh's house, seen by some of us after breakfast. Though similar to the female Green-throated Mango, the female Black-throated has a much broader, uninterrupted black stripe running from chin to belly.
TUFTED COQUETTE (Lophornis ornatus) – One hovered around some treetop flowers along the Georgetown-Lethem road -- nice spotting Doug! Some of the group saw another on the grounds of Caiman House during an afternoon's break. The pale bar across the backsides of both males and females is helpful in quickly identifying the coquettes.
LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris) – One seen perched briefly along the Rupununi River by the folks in my boat. Sadly, it shot up and over the surrounding forest before everyone else arrived.
BLUE-TAILED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon mellisugus) – One in a small tree in the clearing of the Iwokrama River Lodge, seen as we headed out towards the Capuchinbird lek, with others around Yupukari and Manari Ranch.
BLUE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE (Chlorestes notata) – A male foraged low along the Buro-Buro trail as we started our walk into the forest.
GRAY-BREASTED SABREWING (Campylopterus largipennis) – This big, rather plain hummer was a regular visitor to Atta's hummingbird feeders.
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) – Our first was perched high in the forest along the Turtle Mountain trail for those who continued birding after lunch, but our best views came around the hummingbird feeders at Atta -- including the one feeding right at the bar!
PLAIN-BELLIED EMERALD (Amazilia leucogaster) – Reasonably widespread on the first half of the tour, including a few regulars buzzing around Atta's pollinator garden and hummingbird feeders.
GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD (Amazilia fimbriata) – At least one male in a flowering tree along the road at the Georgetown Botanical Garden -- conveniently within feet on the previous species. Some of the group had others on Caiman House's grounds during an afternoon break.
The Gray-breasted Sabrewing may not be much of a stunner, but it is certainly a treat to see one perched. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
RUFOUS-THROATED SAPPHIRE (Hylocharis sapphirina) – A couple of birds feeding in treetop flowers along the Georgetown-Lethem road caught our attention (I think it was Doug who first spotted them) and we found more foraging high in trees along the edge of the forest along the Buro-Buro trail. The male's bright red bill is eye-catching; the small rufous patch under the chin is decidedly harder to see!
Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)
HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin) – Quite common along the Mahaica River, but they proved frustratingly elusive for the most part -- growling from the dense bushes and showing themselves only in fits and starts. This is Guyana's national bird.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica) – A handful trotted around on the huge leaves of the Amazon Water Lilies at the quiet pond we visited one evening near the Rupununi River.
AZURE GALLINULE (Porphyrio flavirostris) – One scuttled through the mostly-dead vegetation in a drying little pond beside the Georgetown-Lethem road on the hot afternoon we transferred to Caiman House. It was seen by those in the first two vehicles, but had disappeared by the time the third pulled up.
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna) – Good studies of an unwary bird hunting along a ditch at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, with dozens of others sprinkled in puddles and wet spots across the Rupununi savanna.
Psophiidae (Trumpeters)
GRAY-WINGED TRUMPETER (Psophia crepitans) – A little group stepped out into the Georgetown-Lethem road on the day we transferred to Atta, shuffling their wings as they moved further and further into the open. Jim spotted a much bigger group on a side track in the white sand forest the next day, and we saw (and heard) others along the Buro-Buro and Harpy trails. These ground-dwelling birds aren't particularly good fliers, but they are exceptionally fast runners.
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
DOUBLE-STRIPED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus bistriatus) – One flashed across the track in front of our vehicles as we headed off-road in search of Giant Anteaters in the Rupununi savanna, and those who headed to the Brazilian border on our last day found another pair right in the road.
We recorded 20 species of parrot on the tour. These Festive Parrots were probably the rarest. Photo by Cecilia Verkley.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – Small numbers of these charming little plovers pattered along the sandy edges of the Essequibo and Rupununi rivers or rested on rocky islets in the middle of their flows. A few even ventured up to the lawn of the Iwokrama River Lodge to check for tasty morsels.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – A few along the canals that lined the edges of the road near the Ogle Airport, with others near wet spots (and river edges) in the Rupununi savanna.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana) – Dozens in the rice fields (and nearby ditches) along the coast, with others at the Georgetown Botanical Garden and around the wet spots in the Rupununi savanna. We got good looks at their incredibly long toes as they tiptoed across the Amazon Water Lily pads at the quiet pond we visited as evening drew in on the Rupununi River.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus) – A few on the mudflats off Ogle Beach, including one that was hunting right under the sea wall until we showed up. This is a winter visitor to Guyana. [b]
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla) – One taxi-load of folks saw some along the edge of a canal on the drive to Ogle Airport. This is another winter visitor to Guyana. [b]
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) – Small numbers on scattered days, including one teetering along the base of the sea wall at Ogle Beach, and others trotting along the edges of the Essequibo and Rupununi rivers. Yet another winter visitor. [b]
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca) – A little group rested and preened on the mudflat at Ogle Beach, and one foraged near the sea wall, towering over the nearby Spotted Sandpiper. This too is a winter visitor. [b]
WILLET (EASTERN) (Tringa semipalmata semipalmata) – Another winter visitor seen only along the coast, with a handful flashing their black and white wings along the mudflats of Ogle Beach.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris) – At least a few pairs of these small terns -- sister species to North America's Least Tern -- patrolled the Essequibo River near the Iwokrama River Lodge.
We had great views of some retina-searing Scarlet Ibis on the mudflats at Ogle Beach. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex) – A pair of these larger terns coursed over our boats as we headed to Turtle Mountain along the Essequibo River one morning. The pattern on their upperwings is striking -- as is that massive bill!
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger) – Three or four hunted along the surf line edging the mudflats at Ogle Beach, flapping gracefully just above the water. This species doesn't breed in Guyana.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari) – Small numbers seen in scattered locations on the Rupununi savanna. This is generally the scarcest of the tour's storks.
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Seen daily on the Rupununi savanna, both hunting in wet spots and soaring high above the dry grasslands. Unlike the other two stork species, this one has no black in the wings.
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana) – And to think, people were worried when they missed the first ones! We saw dozens and dozens and DOZENS in wet spots along the causeway road on our way in to Yupukari, and at least one of the boats saw hundreds festooning a tree along the Rupununi River as we headed back to base after our evening outing to look for Band-tailed Nighthawks.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) – Singles along the Essequibo and Rupununi rivers (fleeing repeatedly from our approaching boats), with another soaring over Yupukari for those who opted for the later bird walk on our final day.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) – A few rested on poles offshore at Ogle Beach, and we saw others swimming in (or flying above) the Essequibo and Rupununi rivers.
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis) – A trio flapped ponderously past as we birded Ogle Beach. Though it is found year-round in Guyana, it is not known to breed in the country.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
PINNATED BITTERN (Botaurus pinnatus) – The head and neck of one well-camouflaged bird poked out of the reeds in a marshy spot we passed en route to Yupukari.
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi) – Seen on about half the days of the tour, in a variety of wet spots, including multiples sprinkled across the wet mudflats off Ogle Beach, one standing on a rocky islet in the Essequibo River, and others in some of the swampy oases in the Rupununi savanna. This is the southern replacement for the Great Blue Heron.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) – Regular in wet spots throughout, including a tree full of courting, nesting birds near the zoo at the Georgetown Botanical Garden.
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) – Particularly common on the mudflats off Ogle Beach, with others along the canals lining Georgetown's streets and hunting beside the Rupununi River.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea) – Also especially numerous on the Ogle Beach mudflats, where we saw quite a few blue adults, and along the Rupununi, where most of them were white youngsters. It takes two years for immature birds to become entirely blue.
TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor) – Scattered birds along the coast, with most at Ogle Beach and a few along Georgetown's many canals. This resident species isn't found away from Guyana's coast.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Quite common along the coast, with dozens hunting along canals in Georgetown and on dikes edging the coastal rice fields.
STRIATED HERON (SOUTH AMERICAN) (Butorides striata striata) – Our first was hunched beside one of the ditches at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, staring intently at the water. We saw others at a few of the savanna oases we passed on our way to Caiman House, and another near the pond where we saw the Amazon Water Lilies.
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – One stood on a rocky islets in the middle of the Essequibo River (not far from a Cocoi Heron), seen as we motored towards Turtle Mountain. Some of the group saw another on the sandy bank of the Rupununi River, though it flapped off downriver before all the boats came into view.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax) – At least one adult and one immature bird were visible in a roost tree at the Georgetown Botanical Garden.
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea) – A few adults hunted on the mudflats off Ogle Beach, standing with their necks outstretched, staring intently at the ground.
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – Our journey back to the landing site along the Rupununi River after our boat trip turned up a handful of wide-eyed birds scattered among the trees along the river's edge. Their comparatively huge eyes indicate the birds' preference for nocturnal hunting.
Participant Cecilia Verkley snapped this picture of a fierce-looking Aplomado Falcon as the sun sank in the Rupununi savanna.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
SCARLET IBIS (Eudocimus ruber) – A sprinkling of these brilliantly gorgeous birds on the mudflats off Ogle Beach, including one that started right below the sea wall and quickly trotted away when it saw us. Their color comes from carotenoids derived from their favorite prey -- crabs.
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – A couple of the boats spotted one on a sandbar in the Rupununi River as we motored towards the oxbow lake with all the water lilies. Those who opted for the later bird walk on our last morning saw a trio foraging along the river's edge not far from the boat landing.
BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus) – Two with a big group of Black Vultures at a shady restaurant along the Georgetown-Lethem road (where we stopped to get some ice) allowed nice scope studies, and we saw others in and over the Rupununi savanna.
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja) – Those who ventured to the Brazilian border on our last day saw a couple in one of the wet spots we passed along the way.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa) – Regular in and around the Iwokrama forest, including an adult circling over the clearing on Turtle Mountain just before we headed into the forest for the second half of our morning walk and an adult and youngster perched low in trees along the Georgetown-Lethem road, apparently sated from feasting on an out-of-view (but smellable!) carcass.
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) – Surprisingly scarce at the coast, but plentiful in parts of the interior -- including dozens in the trees (and on the sandbars) edging the Essequibo and a regular handful in the trees over the Atta clearing.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) – Regular throughout, including numbers rocking over the Mahaica River, where we searched among them for Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures.
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus) – Smaller and somewhat browner than the next species, with a paler head; its underwing wing pattern resembles that of the Turkey Vulture. We saw a handful of them among the more plentiful Turkey Vultures over the Mahaica rice fields, and many more in the Rupununi savanna.
GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus) – This, the larger and darker of the yellow-headed vultures, is found primarily over primary forest. We had some great looks at perched birds along the Georgetown-Lethem road, where we could clearly see their bright yellow heads. Their flight profile is much flatter than the strong dihedral of the previous two species.
The impressive lily pads of the Amazon Water Lily are some of the world's largest, measuring from two to six feet across! Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – Most common towards the coast -- including one eating a fish out on the mudflats at Ogle Beach -- with others perched along the Essequibo and Rupununi rivers. This is a non-breeding visitor to Guyana.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus) – A few birds seen hovering and perched along the bumpy causeway road we took in to Yupukari. Its long white tail, habit of hovering in place and rather gull-like jizz makes it instantly recognizable.
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus) – Regular in the Iwokrama forest, often in flight and often in small groups. Though the species is resident in Guyana, some birds head north in the spring, to breed in Central and North America.
BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus) – One circled over the clearing on Turtle Mountain several times, and another soared over the forest along the Georgetown-Lethem road. The heavily barred flight feathers of this dark-bodied species are distinctive.
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) – A distant bird circled over rice fields visible from Naresh's porch, its rusty wings and pale head more obvious in the scope. Fortunately, we had much more satisfying views of one perched in a scrubby tree near one of the roadside ponds on our drive south from Annai towards the Yupukari turnoff, with another over the Rupununi River on our boat trip there.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – Abundant along the coast, where we saw dozens sitting on roadside wires or soaring over the mangroves.
DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE (Harpagus bidentatus) – Two in a patch of white sand forest accompanied a small troop of Wedge-capped Capuchins, letting the monkeys serve as "beaters" and chasing the insects flushed by their passage. We got some nice scope looks at them both.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea) – Abundant in the Iwokrama Forest, typically seen perched up atop dead snags or soaring, flat-winged, over the forest. When perched, the bird's long wings extend well past its tail.
LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni) – One rocked past over the channel where Naresh dropped us off after our morning on the Mahaica River, and another sailed in circles over the Georgetown Botanical Garden. This large, dark raptor is typically seen only along the coast.
TINY HAWK (Accipiter superciliosus superciliosus) – One flashed in to land at the top of one of the tallest trees at the edge of the Atta clearing, looking (appropriately) tiny compared to a nearby woodpecker. This small raptor is a hummingbird specialist; it cruises through the forest, picking hummingbirds off their perches.
We got some outstanding views of a pair of singing Black-capped Donacobius along the Mahaica River. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens) – One launched itself out of a tree along the Essequibo and flapped out over the river before turning and heading back in to perch again. The long, bright red legs of this species are distinctive.
RUFOUS CRAB HAWK (Buteogallus aequinoctialis) – Superb views of a couple along the coast highway -- in an area where their once-lovely forest had been recently bulldozered. One of the birds perched on a dead stump right beside the road.
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis) – Appropriately, we saw this one in the Surama and Rupununi savannas, including dozens scattered on fence posts and scrubby tree tops on the drive to Yupukari.
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga) – One perched along the side of the Georgetown-Lethem road waited until ALMOST all of us had climbed out of the bus before flying off. Fortunately, we found more cooperative birds later in the tour along the same road (including one hanging with the vultures near the out-of-sight kill), and some of us spotted a youngster along the edge of the Rupununi River on our boat trip.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Common throughout, from our first day (one flapping over the rice fields across from Naresh's house) to our last (in Yupukari, for those who took the later bird walk). Their exuberant "weeeeeeee" calls were a regular part of the tour's soundtrack
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus) – Common in the Rupununi savanna, where we saw many, both in flight and perched.
GRAY-LINED HAWK (Buteo nitidus) – Seen on scattered days in open areas, including an adult at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, one on several days around IRL, one at Surama Junction for Doug, and another on the last morning bird walk at Yupukari for those who chose the later option.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) – A few on our first two days, including one high over the Mahaica, a couple over the Georgetown Botanical Garden and another at Kaieteur Falls.
ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus) – It took a bit of effort, but we finally spotted one lurking among the vultures rocking over the Mahaica River. The smaller size, white tail bands and feathered head (which makes the head look more substantial as a result) help to quickly distinguish it.
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) – Some of us heard one calling outside Caiman House early one morning, as we waited for the gang to gather for our excursion into the Rupununi savanna. Unfortunately, it didn't respond to our attempts to bring it closer. [*]
TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops watsonii) – It took a bit of searching, but we got there in the end -- with great scope views of a calling bird at our White-winged Potoo spot. Its brown eyes quickly separate it from the other screech-owls in Guyana.
CRESTED OWL (Lophostrix cristata) – We heard one calling from the forest as dusk fell along the Georgetown-Lethem road one evening, as we enjoyed our "sundowners" near a small creek. Though it didn't sound particularly far away -- and even shifted locations a few times -- we never did lay eyes on it. [*]
GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus) – One snuggled into the top of a relatively small tree at the Georgetown Botanical Garden was a good find -- great spotting, Doug! The "Field Checklist to the Birds of Guyana" lists this as an uncommon species.
AMAZONIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium hardyi) – Heard on several days (including one right near the road at our White-winged Potoo spot) but not seen. This owl isn't strictly nocturnal; sometimes it is seen and heard in the daytime as well. [*]
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) – One shouted challenges at us from the scrubby trees along the causeway road into Yupukari, near the bridge where we watched for Least and Lesser nighthawks.
BLACK-BANDED OWL (Ciccaba huhula) – On our first attempt, we heard a whole lot of nothing! Fortunately, they were far more obliging on our second visit, calling to each other and sitting in the open along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem highway shortly after dark.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus) – We heard one calling repeatedly along the Turtle Mountain trail, but never connected with it. [*]
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis) – Easily the most common of the tour's trogons, seen on most days in the Iwokrama Forest. This species was split from the former White-tailed Trogon complex.
GUIANAN TROGON (Trogon violaceus) – A pair plucking berries from a fruiting tree near the start of the Buro-Buro trail gave us nice views. This species has been split from the former "Violaceous Trogon", and is now the sister species of the more northerly Gartered Trogon.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – Common along the big rivers, including a noisy pair that accompanied us a goodly way down the Essequibo, shouting challenges as they crisscrossed back and forth over the water.
We found Wing-barred Seedeaters only along the coast, where participant Cecilia Verkley got this photo.
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona) – Surprisingly, we didn't catch up with this mid-sized species until we reached the Rupununi -- where we saw a dozen or more perched up along the river's edge.
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana) – Marsha spotted our first, perched low along the edge of one of the lagoons at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, and we saw others along the Georgetown-Lethem road (at the edge of one of the small ponds near the roadside) and along the Rupununi, where they were outnumbered by the previous species.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
GUIANAN PUFFBIRD (Notharchus macrorhynchos) – Marissa spotted one for us, perched up high on a treetop along the Georgetown-Lethem road. This Guianan Shield endemic was split from the White-necked Puffbird complex.
PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus) – A couple of these small puffbirds -- miniature versions of the previous species -- were seen on a few days along the Georgetown-Lethem road.
SPOTTED PUFFBIRD (Bucco tamatia) – Doug spotted our first, sitting quietly in the understory of the white sand forest we visited from Atta on a soggy morning. We saw others along the Surama entrance road and on the walk into the pond with all the water lilies.
BLACK NUNBIRD (Monasa atra) – Regular along the edges of the Georgetown-Lethem road, with others on the Turtle Mountain trail. The coral-colored bill of this puffbird is pretty striking.
SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa) – Abundant in the Iwokrama forest, perched up on dead snags along every road, track and waterway. Their dumpy shape and big white rump patch in flight are distinctive.
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
YELLOW-BILLED JACAMAR (Galbula albirostris) – Great looks at this well-named species along the Turtle Mountain trail, where we tracked one down after hearing it sing. This jacamar hunts from perches in the midstory.
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) – One along the Ireng River for those who took the early birding departure on our last day, and one in the Rupununi savanna for the those who headed straight for Manari Ranch after breakfast. Though widespread over much of Central and South America, this species is uncommon and local in Guyana.
GREEN-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula galbula) – Surprisingly, we missed these along the Mahaica River this year. Fortunately, we caught up with one along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem highway on the day we transferred to Atta.
The Bronzy Jacamar is one of the specialist species we look for in the white sand forest. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra) – A pair hunting quietly over the old cattle trail through the white sand forest was nicely cooperative, returning again and again to the same perches. This is a white sand specialist, though it is also sometimes found in riparian forest.
PARADISE JACAMAR (Galbula dea) – One perched high in a treetop along the Harpy trail showed well its distinctively long-tailed profile.
GREAT JACAMAR (Jacamerops aureus) – Regular through the middle of the tour, with their mournful, whistling calls echoing from the Iwokrama forest on many days. We saw a female hunting low along the Georgetown-Lethem road one evening (while we waited for the White-winged Potoo to make an appearance) and found a male in the midstory along the Buro-Buro trail.
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
BLACK-SPOTTED BARBET (Capito niger) – One flicked through a Cecropia tree over the clearing on Turtle Mountain, showing in fits and starts before finally moving into the open. Though ours was alone, the species often joins mixed flocks.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
GREEN ARACARI (Pteroglossus viridis) – Pairs or trios seen on several days in the Iwokrama Forest, including three bouncing through a tree along the banks of the Essequibo (as we motored towards Turtle Mountain), several pairs along the Georgetown-Lethem road and others on the Surama entrance road.
BLACK-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus aracari) – Regular in the Iwokrama Forest, including some noisy birds visiting the fruiting Cecropia trees at the edge of the Atta Rainforest Lodge's clearing. The combination of yellow underparts and red breast band is diagnostic.
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco) – A single bird at the Georgetown Botanical Garden sat right at the top of one of the big trees, flashing that big orange bill as it peered around. They're uncommon and local in Guyana, found in savanna grasslands and riverine habitats -- but we typically see them only in the botanical garden
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus) – Regular in the Iwokrama Forest, including a pair sharing a treetop with the next species along the Essequibo River. Their high-pitched, barking calls were a regular part of the tour soundtrack. The subspecies found in Guyana (tucanus) was previously considered to be a full species -- the Red-billed Toucan.
CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus) – Another regular species in the Iwokrama Forest, though somewhat less common than the White-throated Toucan. We had good looks at their distinctively yellow bibs on several occasions.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
WHITE-BELLIED PICULET (Picumnus spilogaster) – One crawled through the branches of roadside bushes near the Mahaica River bridge, seen as we birded after stopping for the Rufous Crab Hawks. The mostly plain belly of this tiny woodpecker separates it from Guyana's other piculets.
WHITE-BARRED PICULET (Picumnus cirratus) – One investigated a trunk along the little raised causeway we walked at Hope Beach, and we found another during our search for Hoary-throated Spinetail. The belly of this one is heavily barred with black and white.
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus) – Regular around the Atta clearing, including several little gangs visiting those busy fruiting Cecropia trees. Many of the birds we see in the Iwokrama forest are the "untufted" black morph.
GOLDEN-COLLARED WOODPECKER (Dryobates cassini) – One worked its way around the Atta canopy platform, and a second moved along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem road the following morning. This is a Guianan Shield endemic.
BLOOD-COLORED WOODPECKER (Dryobates sanguineus) – A trio of very obliging birds right from Naresh's front porch, with another in the Georgetown Botanical Garden. This is a very range-restricted species, found only in a thin band along the coast from Guyana to French Guiana.
RED-NECKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus rubricollis) – Two shared a tree with a pair of Lineated Woodpeckers along the Essequibo River, as we made our way to Turtle Mountain. But our best views probably came along Surama's Buro-Buro trail, where we watched one hammering on some branches.
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos) – Also seen along the Buro-Buro trail. The combination of pale bill and white neck stripe quickly separates this from Guyana's other big woodpeckers.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus) – Very common throughout, missed on only two days of the tour. The birds calling challenges from a big dead snag near the parking area at IRL were particularly obliging, allowing some nice scope studies.
RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus) – We heard the clear, strong, three-note whistles of this species on several days in the Iwokrama forest, but only got a good look at it once -- a bird that made several passes over the Georgetown-Lethem road before settling in to forage.
WAVED WOODPECKER (Celeus undatus) – Seen well on several days in the Iwokrama forest, including one sharing a tree over the Atta clearing with a Tiny Hawk, and another in the same stretch of the Georgetown-Lethem road as the previous species. This is Guyana's only brown woodpecker that is strongly barred on both front and back.
Birding on the Essequibo River, en route to Turtle Mountain. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
CREAM-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavus) – One of these gorgeous, pale woodpeckers in the fruiting Cecropias over Atta's clearing caused a bit of a commotion. We found another right over our heads along the Buro-Buro trail, with still more along the Georgetown-Lethem road.
YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula) – A couple beyond the clearing along the Turtle Mountain trail appeared to be an adult with a newly-fledged youngster.
GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros) – Good looks at this uncommon species on a couple of occasions: one along the Georgetown-Lethem road, and a second on the Buro-Buro trail. The bright yellow face stripes on this forest species are distinctive.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater) – A couple sailed across the Essequibo River, and another flapped over the Georgetown-Lethem road. The bare faces of this species -- orange in adults, yellow in youngsters -- help to quickly identify them.
RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus) – Some noisy gangs around the Atta clearing, with others over the Georgetown-Lethem road. We typically heard this species before we saw it! The white belly quickly separates this forest species from the previous one.
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara cheriway) – Common in open areas along the coast, and in the Surama and Rupununi savannas, including a few striding along on the ground on our drive to Yupukari.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima) – A few along the Mahaica River, but our best views came late in the day on our visit to the Georgetown Botanical Garden, when a couple of birds flapped past overhead. This open-country species is smaller and paler than the previous one.
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) – One perched in a tree near where we found our Rufous Crab Hawks pulled attention away from the Black-crested Antshrikes we were watching. Those who did the last morning bird walk in Yupukari spotted another one near the village there.
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius) – Small numbers in the Rupununi savanna, perched in the tops of the scruffy trees or hovering over the grasslands.
MERLIN (Falco columbarius) – One coursing along a hedge line, seen from Naresh's porch, was a surprise; this is a rare winter visitor to Guyana.
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis) – A scattered few in the Rupununi savanna, including one perched near the bumpy causeway road on our journey in to Yupukari.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) – Probably best seen along the Essequibo River, where we found a pair perched up in some dead snags -- small male on one tree, bigger female some distance away in another. We saw others along the Georgetown-Lethem road.
The Pacaraima Mountains, here seen from the Surama Eco-lodge, stretch along the western edge of the Rupununi savanna. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
ORANGE-BREASTED FALCON (Falco deiroleucus) – A pair terrorized the White-tipped Swifts over the chasm at Kaieteur before swooping in to perch on the far side of the falls.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus) – Some of the group saw one over the Georgetown-Lethem road on the day we transferred to Yupukari. This is another winter visitor to Guyana.
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
LILAC-TAILED PARROTLET (Touit batavicus) – A few birds rocketed past overhead, calling as they went, seen as we birded along the Georgetown-Lethem road on our way to the Cock-of-the-Rock trail. The bold yellow striping on their upperwings is diagnostic.
GOLDEN-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chrysoptera) – Common throughout most of the tour, with our first at Kaieteur Falls and seen daily in the Iwokrama forest. The golden-orange wing patch is particularly visible in flight.
CAICA PARROT (Pyrilia caica) – Doug spotted one in flight along the Surama entrance road; its dark face is distinctive. This is another Guianan Shield endemic.
DUSKY PARROT (Pionus fuscus) – Most common around the Atta clearing, where we saw a few foraging in trees near the driveway each day. This species is distinctly dark, looking primarily blue in flight.
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus) – Especially good views of small numbers perched up in -- or flying over -- the Atta clearing. The all-blue head is distinctive, as is the bright red vent.
FESTIVE PARROT (Amazona festiva) – A quartet of noisy birds in the Georgetown Botanical Garden were a nice find as the sun slid down towards dusk on our first afternoon. This is a rare species in Guyana.
BLUE-CHEEKED PARROT (Amazona dufresniana) – Unfortunately, we never got much of a look at these, though several small groups winged past as we waited for the White-winged Potoo to make an appearance.
YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala) – Small numbers in the Rupununi savanna, including some perched where we could see their yellow crowns.
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa) – Especially good views of a few squawking away in a treetop at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, with others perched along the clearing edges at IRL and Atta. The big pale eye ring of this one is a useful field mark.
ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica) – Abundant throughout, with the regular gang in the trees over the IRL boat dock giving us plenty of opportunity to study them in the scope.
The handsome Red-capped Cardinal is particularly common along Guyana's many waterways. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
GREEN-RUMPED PARROTLET (Forpus passerinus) – A few of these tiny birds perched in the riverside vegetation along the banks of the Mahaica.
BLACK-HEADED PARROT (Pionites melanocephalus) – Small numbers seen perched in treetops along the Georgetown-Lethem road, often at the tiptop of dead snags. The black flight feathers of this white-bellied species are diagnostic.
RED-FAN PARROT (Deroptyus accipitrinus) – Fairly regular in the Iwokrama forest, with especially nice scope studies of a little group rummaging through a tree at the edge of the IRL clearing on the morning we walked the Bushmaster trail. We saw others around Atta and along the Georgetown-Lethem road.
PAINTED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura picta) – Surprisingly tough to get a look at this trip, though we find a noisy group at the edge of the IRL clearing on the morning we transferred to Atta.
BROWN-THROATED PARAKEET (Eupsittula pertinax) – Abundant in the savanna, both at the coast and inland. Some birds along the Mahaica River, and in the trees near Naresh's house, gave us good chance for study.
RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilatus) – Seen in the Rupununi savanna, primarily in areas with Moriche Palms. The bare yellow facial skin on this medium-sized macaw is distinctive.
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna) – We had a fabulous encounter with this iconic species near the Fairview Village airfield, when we found 5 or 6 screeching birds quite literally hanging in a fruiting tree. We found others on Turtle Mountain and around IRL.
SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao) – Regular in the Iwokrama forest, with particularly nice looks at a family of four near the Harpy Eagle nest. They peered down at us from above, occasionally lifting into screaming flight and getting us all excited about the potential arrival of the eagle. Alas, they were lying!
RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus) – Easily the most common of the tour's macaws, seen on all but a few days.
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis) – A few at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, with others around Yupukari. This is Guyana's smallest macaw, only 4-5 inches longer than some of the parakeets.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus) – We heard one calling near the path on Turtle Mountain, but it never edged close enough to see. [*]
BLACK-THROATED ANTSHRIKE (Frederickena viridis) – A pair seen on our walk out to Atta's canopy walkway, along the same stretch of the trail as our Spot-winged Antbird -- and causing some confusion initially amongst some viewers as to which was which. This is a Guianan Shield endemic.
A Rufous-crowned Elaenia shows off the crown patch that helps to identify it. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
BLACK-CRESTED ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus canadensis) – A pair in the shrubs along the roadside near the Mahaica River bridge were cooperative, spending long minutes in the open with the male singing repeatedly. We saw others in riverine areas of the Rupununi savanna. The subspecies in Guyana is trinitatis.
MOUSE-COLORED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus murinus) – A male along the Harpy trail entertained us briefly on our return trip. This is one of Guyana's smaller antshrikes.
NORTHERN SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus punctatus) – Heard calling from the white sand forest while we searched for Guianan Red-Cotinga and Pelzeln's Tody-Tyrant, with another heard as we birded along the Georgetown-Lethem road on our way to the Harpy trail. [*]
DUSKY-THROATED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes ardesiacus) – Best seen on Turtle Mountain, with others along the Buro-Buro trail. They're often in mixed flocks with the next species.
CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius) – As with the previous species (with which it generally associates), we saw them well on Turtle Mountain and the Buro-Buro trail. This species often acts as 'flock leader'.
RUFOUS-BELLIED ANTWREN (Isleria guttata) – Great looks (eventually) at one of these round, short-tailed birds in the midstory of the forest along the Turtle Mountain trail, with another heard on the Buro-Buro trail.
BROWN-BELLIED STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla gutturalis) – Heard on Turtle Mountain and the Harpy trail, but never seen. This species, which is often a part of mixed flocks, was formerly known as Brown-bellied Antwren.
GUIANAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula surinamensis) – Super views of a pair twitching through vegetation along the edge of the stream just down the main road from the Atta entrance drive. The rusty-headed female is certainly eye-catching!
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris) – I think Cecilia and the guides were the only ones to spot one of these with a mixed flock we found on Turtle Mountain, not far from where we found our first perched Fork-tailed Wood-nymph. The bold white flank patch on the black male is diagnostic.
LONG-WINGED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula longipennis) – A pair with a mixed flock on the Turtle Mountain trail. The combination of strong wingbars and a black bib help to identify the male, as does the grayish-white belly of the otherwise brown female. Those wings didn't look particularly long to us!
GRAY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula menetriesii) – A pair along the Cock-of-the-Rock trail was among the very few species we saw there -- other than the eponymous cocks-of-the-rock, of course.
SPOT-TAILED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus sticturus) – A pair of calling birds worked their way through a tangle of vegetation high in a tree on the edge of a clearing along the Buro-Buro trail. Voice is the best way to tell this species from the next, which is very similarly plumaged.
TODD'S ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus stictocephalus) – A pair in the same tree on the edge of the Atta clearing as our Waved Woodpecker (and later, the Tiny Hawk). Fortunately, the male was singing!
WHITE-FRINGED ANTWREN (Formicivora grisea) – Pairs of this handsome species seen on both birding outings on our final morning -- in the scrubby trees around Yupukari village for one group, and in the short trees on the edge of the Tacutu River by the other.
GUIANAN WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis cantator) – One mooched through some fallen branches along the edge of the Atta clearing behind the staff quarters, before breakfast on the morning we transferred to Surama. The distinctively rusty flanks of this colorful, short-tailed species makes it one of the easier "ant things" to identify.
DUSKY ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides tyrannina) – Seen and/or heard on several days along the Georgetown-Lethem road, with our best looks coming on our last day in the Iwokrama forest, when we found a pair working low along the road edge.
GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens) – One fairly near the start of the Turtle Mountain trail got our hike there off to a good start; this species is much more likely to be heard than seen. It's a "light gap" loving species, typically found along forest edges, or in areas where trees have fallen.
WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD (Myrmoborus leucophrys) – A male along the Buro-Buro trail gave us great views of his bold white eyebrow as he worked his way through tangles of vegetation and piles of fallen branches.
BLACK-CHINNED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides melanopogon) – A pair near where we found our first Gray Antbird, along the Turtle Mountain trail -- low along the edge of the lagoon that edged into the forest from the Essequibo River. This species is typically found near water.
SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia) – We were so close to two of them that we could practically have reached out and touched them -- except that they were hiding in the dense vegetation along the Mahaica River and we could never spot them, despite their being so close. Arg!
RORAIMAN ANTBIRD (Myrmelastes saturatus) – A pair twitched through the undergrowth almost literally at our boot tips on a side trail at Kaieteur Falls. Some saw them well, some saw only the movement in the dim light of the forest, and some didn't see them at all. This is a range-restricted species found only in the tepui zone of southeastern Venezuela, western Guyana and a tiny portion of northern Brazil.
The gang at Kaieteur Falls. We were the only visitors in the whole park! Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
SPOT-WINGED ANTBIRD (Myrmelastes leucostigma) – A pair, low in the understory along the path out to Atta's canopy walkway, were a bit of a challenge to find in the pre-dawn half light. Fortunately, they spent a while bouncing along near the ground. This species is only found in lowland forests north of the Amazon.
WHITE-BELLIED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza longipes) – The loud descending whistles of this species were heard by those who walked to the Rupununi River on our last morning in Yupukari. [*]
FERRUGINOUS-BACKED ANTBIRD (Myrmoderus ferrugineus) – A singing bird along the Atta entrance road cooperated marvelously, moving into view several times as he strode along through the forest.
Grallariidae (Antpittas)
SPOTTED ANTPITTA (Hylopezus macularius) – One singing along IRL's Bushmaster trail proved most cooperative, singing for long minutes from the same low perch and allowing everybody to get multiple scope looks. What a cutie!
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa) – Several of these appropriately named woodcreepers seen along the Turtle Mountain trail, but our best encounter came along the Buro-Buro trail, when we found at least four working low along the edge of the track, part of a big mixed flock.
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus) – Mike spotted one on Turtle Mountain, but those along the Buro-Buro trail proved more generally obliging. We saw others on the Harpy trail. This is Guyana's smallest, shortest-billed woodcreeper.
CINNAMON-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Dendrexetastes rufigula) – We heard one calling from the forest along the Georgetown-Lethem road on the day we transferred to Atta. [*]
AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes certhia) – At least two of this big woodcreepers with a mixed flock along the Buro-Buro trail gave us good looks at their distinctively barred plumage.
CHESTNUT-RUMPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus pardalotus) – Singles seen in a couple of places along the Turtle Mountain trail.
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus guttatus) – A calling bird along the Turtle Mountain trail, and another on the Harpy trail. This is another of Guyana's larger woodcreepers; of the species we saw, only the Amazonian Barred is longer.
STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) – One near the Mahaica River bridge gave us a good chance to study it -- particularly when it returned to the same tree a few times. Those who did the final morning bird walk with Jasper in Yupukari saw another one there.
The aptly-named Yellow-billed Jacamar showed well along the Turtle Mountain trail. Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii) – Those who ventured out with Jasper for a Yupukari bird walk on the last morning found one in the riverine forest near the Rupununi. This species is uncommon and local in Guyana.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus) – One clung, chickadee-like to the tips of branches and vines along the Turtle Mountain trail, part of a mixed flock. A few of the group spotted another with a mixed flock on the Buro-Buro trail.
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus) – A pair seen along the banks of the Rupununi River by folks in some of the boats on our trip there, but our best views came near the Tacutu River, where we found a pair scuttling through the underbrush while searching for Hoary-throated Spinetail.
BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) – One along the Turtle Mountain trail led us on a merry chase back and forth along the trail, singing its head off, before we finally got a look at it. The subspecies found in Guyana (turdinus) sounds strikingly different than birds from Central America.
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) – Lovely views of several at Naresh's place, mooching through the flower border planted near the house. We could even see the tiny yellow spots under their beaks that give them their common name.
PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens) – Two along the edge of the channel where Naresh picked us up for our Mahaica River cruise, with one approaching to within mere yards of us -- and pirouetting from fence rail to scraggly bush and back. We heard well its distinctively "sneezy" song.
HOARY-THROATED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis kollari) – It took some time and patience, but we eventually connected with this handsome, range-restricted species along the Tacutu River (not far from the Ireng River) on our last morning. It flicked through some riverside vegetation, giving us some great views.
Pipridae (Manakins)
TINY TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes virescens) – We heard one calling from the darkening forest along the Rupununi River as we walked out to the pond with the Amazonian Water Lilies. [*]
BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia pareola) – A gorgeous male came in to Jasper's owl call in the forest near Yupukari village on the tour's last morning, part of a mob of small birds.
WHITE-THROATED MANAKIN (Corapipo gutturalis) – Heard along the Harpy trail, but not seen. [*]
BLACK MANAKIN (Xenopipo atronitens) – It took some time and patience, but after hearing several and getting half glimpses of one or two, we finally connected with a perched male that let us examine it at leisure in the scopes. This white sand specialist is longer-tailed than Guyana's other manakins.
WHITE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Dixiphia pipra) – The most common of the tour's manakins, recorded on five days in the Iwokrama forest. Our best views probably came along the Buro-Buro trail, where we found a singing male on an eye-level branch. This is another species where South American birds sound significantly different from those of Central America, and might represent different species.
GOLDEN-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra erythrocephala erythrocephala) – A male in the small white sand forest patch we visited from Atta was a nice consolation prize when we dipped on the Guianan Red-Cotinga there. Their scarlet thighs (illustrated faithfully in all the books) are seldom visible.
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
GUIANAN RED-COTINGA (Phoenicircus carnifex) – We heard several calling in the white sand forest patch near Atta, but just couldn't get any into view, despite concerted efforts. Fortunately, we had an astounding encounter with a gorgeous male along the Harpy trail. It flew in and landed for long seconds right in the open, giving us by far the best views I've ever had with a tour group. Wow, what a bird!
GUIANAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola rupicola) – A couple of males glowed among the shadows in a stand of spindly trees near Kaieteur Falls, and another dazzled near a pile of boulders along the Cock-of-the-Rock trail in the Iwokrama forest. What a gorgeous bird!
CRIMSON FRUITCROW (Haematoderus militaris) – After a few anxious days with nary a trace (other than one calling from the forest along the trail out to the canopy walkway), we finally connected with a female perched high above the Atta clearing on our last morning there. This scarce species is found only in humid lowland forest, and may be somewhat nomadic.
PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW (Querula purpurata) – Regular around the Atta clearing, with others along the Buro-Buro trail. As we saw, they typically travel in small groups, calling regularly to each other as they move.
CAPUCHINBIRD (Perissocephalus tricolor) – It took some patience, and a lot of shuffling back and forth, but we finally found a gap or two in the canopy along IRL's Bushmaster trail that allowed us to watch the bizarre courtship rituals of this big cotinga. We saw another along the Harpy trail and heard their distinctive calls -- a mixture of cow and chainsaw -- on several other days in the forest.
PURPLE-BREASTED COTINGA (Cotinga cotinga) – A female perched atop a tree at the edge of the clearing near the start of the Buro-Buro trail (where we found our Fiery-tailed Awlbill). The combination of dark eyes and pale wing panels help to distinguish her from other female cotingas.
Chestnut-bellied Seedeaters were regular on the grassy lawns around the Iwokrama River Lodge. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana) – A couple of scattered sightings, including a male perched atop a huge tree along the banks of the Essequibo River (seen from our boats) and another from Atta's canopy walkway.
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans) – Abundant in the Iwokrama forest, though far easier to hear than see. How they don't blow their throats out with their loud, explosive songs is a mystery!
WHITE BELLBIRD (Procnias albus) – We heard one calling from the forest while birding around Atta one afternoon, but it was a long way off -- certainly too far away to see! [*]
POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea) – Unfortunately, we never connected with one of the striking males, but we did get a couple of looks at females: one perched along the Georgetown-Lethem road and another from the canopy walkway. Their distinctively pale eyes, patterned wings and unmarked bellies help to identify them.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana) – Pairs seen well daily in the fruiting Cecropia trees around the Atta clearing.
OLIVACEOUS SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis olivacea) – One flitting low through the undergrowth in the white sand forest we visited en route to Atta serenaded us as he went. We heard another at a different patch of white sand forest the following day, while searching for red-cotingas. This species is also known as Guianan Schiffornis.
DUSKY PURPLETUFT (Iodopleura fusca) – Small groups on several days along the Georgetown-Lethem road -- typically sitting atop roadside trees, where we could clearly see their white rump patches. This is a Guianan Shield endemic.
WHITE-NAPED XENOPSARIS (Xenopsaris albinucha) – One in a bush with a couple of Plain-breasted Ground-Doves and a female Vermilion Flycatcher kept us entertained while we waited for the guys to top up the ice in our coolers on the drive to Yupukari. This is a scarce species in Guyana, restricted to savanna scrub and grasslands.
Oxyruncidae (Sharpbill, Royal Flycatcher, and Allies)
RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus) – Only a few got on the first one we saw, low along the Georgetown-Lethem road one afternoon. Fortunately, we found a more cooperative one over the Buro-Buro trail, with another along the Harpy trail too. This tiny "flycatcher" is actually more closely related to the Sharpbill than it is to the tyrant flycatchers, and is now placed in the family Oxyruncidae.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
WHITE-CRESTED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos) – Some of the group spotted one low in the understory along the Turtle Mountain trail.
Tiny, but fierce! Participant Tracy McLellan found this little Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl on the grounds of the Manari Ranch, where we enjoyed the tour's last lunch.
HELMETED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus galeatus) – Another species that we hear far more frequently than we see. Some of the group saw one in the midstory of the forest along the Turtle Mountain trail, while others caught up with one along the Harpy trail.
PALE-EYED PYGMY-TYRANT (Atalotriccus pilaris) – One in the scrubby trees near the restaurant where we stopped to get ice, on the day we transferred to Yupukari.
PELZELN'S TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus inornatus) – One in a patch of white sand forest was certainly a surprise; the species has only recently been discovered in the country. It took a while to track it down -- it certainly didn't make things easy as it slipped through the canopy over our heads -- but I think we all got there in the end.
SLATE-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus sylvia) – Those who ventured to the Brazilian border on our last morning had great close views of a couple just overhead in the trees along the Tacutu River bank.
SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum maculatum) – Two of these colorful little flycatchers twitched through eye-level branches on the edge of the road near the Mahaica River bridge.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum) – Best seen in the street trees along the road through the Georgetown Botanical Garden, with another (for some) at IRL and along the banks of the Tacutu River. This widespread species is found in scrub and second growth in Guyana.
PAINTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum pictum) – We heard one singing (and singing and singing) from a big tree at the edge of the quarry on the Surama entrance road, but couldn't lure it out into the open. [*]
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) – Another one that was heard only, this time from the canopy along the Buro-Buro trail. [*]
YELLOW-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias assimilis) – After hearing one calling along the Turtle Mountain trail, we finally laid eyes on another on the Harpy trail. Voice is the best way to tell this from the previous species.
YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris) – Fine views for both birding groups on our last morning: in the riverine forest for those who birded with Jasper in Yupukari, and in a little mixed flock along the Tacutu River for those who birded on the Brazilian border.
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum) – Small numbers of these small flycatchers in scrubby growth along the Rupununi River and around Yupukari. This species is named for its lack of rictal bristles, which are found around the mouths of virtually all flycatchers other than the beardless-tyrannulets.
The Guianan Trogon was recently split from the former Violaceous Trogon complex. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
MOUSE-COLORED TYRANNULET (Phaeomyias murina) – One in a street tree along the edge of the road through the Georgetown Botanical Garden gave us good opportunity for study, and we saw another along the Georgetown-Lethem road on the day we transferred to Yupukari. Though it's a small bird, this is one of the larger tyrannulets.
CRESTED DORADITO (Pseudocolopteryx sclateri) – At last! It took quite a bit of time and effort, wading through the tall, ankle-grabbing grasses that surrounded a number of savanna oases, but we finally connected with one of these elusive little flycatchers in the Rupununi. This species was only discovered to be present in Guyana within the past decade or so.
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) – Fairly common in the Iwokrama forest, including a few around the Atta clearing and others along the Buro-Buro trail. Their distinctive "oh dear" call was a regular part of the forest soundtrack.
PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata) – One perched up in the short trees in the savanna section of the Buro-Buro trail was very cooperative, giving us multiple chances to check out its plain topknot, which lacks the colored patch that many elaenias show. It's also vocally distinctive, and called a few times for us.
RUFOUS-CROWNED ELAENIA (Elaenia ruficeps) – One near the start of the trail at Kaieteur Falls was eventually cooperative, giving us good looks at the rufous patch on the back of its head.
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) – Best seen along the Mahaica River, where we found several perched up atop the riverside vegetation, singing their distinctively burry songs and calls.
LESSER ELAENIA (Elaenia chiriquensis) – Seen at the start of our walk on the Buro-Buro trail, not far from its Plain-crested cousin. This species lacks the pointed crests of the larger Yellow-bellied and Plain-crested elaenias.
GUIANAN TYRANNULET (Zimmerius acer) – One circled around the platform on Atta's canopy walkway. This was previously considered to be a subspecies of the Slender-footed Tyrannulet.
PALE-TIPPED TYRANNULET (Inezia caudata) – One with the Chivi Vireo flock on the pre-breakfast outing to the Rupununi River in Yupukari for those who opted out of the early morning excursion.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus) – Small numbers sprinkled on roadside fence wires and shrub tops in the Rupununi savanna, with others along the Tacutu River on our final morning. The subspecies found in Guyana is saturatus.
PIED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola pica) – A few in the rice fields around the Mahaica River, with others around the oases and waterways of the Rupununi.
WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala) – Our first pair hunted along the edge of a roadside puddle beside the Georgetown-Lethem road on our drive to Yupukari, and we found others around the marshy oases in the Rupununi itself.
CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus) – One high overhead in a big tree at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, with another near the big clearing on the Turtle Mountain trail. This species is fairly widespread in Guyana, in habitats ranging from lowland and gallery forest to secondary growth.
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) – The distinctive "maniacal laugh" song of this species was heard daily around the Atta Rainforest Lodge, but the bird itself was not seen. [*]
SWAINSON'S FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus swainsoni) – One at the beginning of the Buro-Buro trail came right in when we played its call back to it. Like the next species, this one has an all-dark undertail.
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox) – A calling bird sitting atop the dense vegetation along the edge of the Mahaica River proved very obliging, as did another for those on the final morning walk with Jasper.
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) – Those who did the later outing on our last morning in Yupukari saw one in the gallery forest near the Rupununi River. Unlike the previous two species, this one has a broad rufous stripe down the center of the undertail.
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor) – Several pairs hunted low along the Mahaica and Rupununi rivers. This species is always found near water.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) – Common and widespread in open areas, missed only on the day we stayed around the Atta Rainforest Lodge.
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) – Seen on scattered days, including a few along the edges of the Surama savanna, some high above the clearing on the Buro-Buro trail and others around Yupukari.
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis) – Another common and widespread species, venturing even into the heart of Georgetown. This was another species missed only in the heart of Iwokrama forest.
STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus) – One on the Buro-Buro trail, with another in the gallery forest near the Rupununi river.
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius) – One near the old forestry camp in the Iwokrama forest sang his heart out from a treetop, giving us a good chance to study it in the scopes. This species gets its name from its habit of stealing nests from caciques once they've built them.
VARIEGATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus varius) – One along the Georgetown-Lethem road, seen as we birded our way towards the Harpy trail on our last morning in the Iwokrama forest.
A focused Little Cuckoo checks out a potential meal along the Mahaica River. Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) – Ubiquitous, seen in good numbers every day of the tour.
GRAY KINGBIRD (Tyrannus dominicensis) – A couple of cooperative birds at the Georgetown Botanical Garden showed well the distinctively heavy bill of this species -- which lacks any hint of yellowish tones on the belly and chest.
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana) – A few over the Mahaica River and nearby rice fields, but they proved most common in the Rupununi savanna, where they decorated barbed wire fence strands and bushes throughout.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) – We heard one singing from the dense growth along the Rupununi River, but couldn't see the singer from our boats. [*]
ASHY-HEADED GREENLET (Hylophilus pectoralis) – One in a street tree along the road through the Georgetown Botanical Garden gave us nice looks at it worked its way along the branches. A few of the group saw another in bushes near the Iwokrama River Lodge.
LEMON-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus thoracicus) – Heard on multiple days, but not seen this year -- which was surprising. Particularly frustrating were the pair we could hear calling to each other as they moved back and forth through a big dense tree along the Georgetown-Lethem road. [*]
RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus) – Doug spotted one of these northern migrants along the Georgetown-Lethem road. [b]
CHIVI VIREO (Vireo chivi) – Two in the shrubbery along the trail down to the Rupununi River, seen well by those who chose the later bird walk on our last day in Guyana. This species was formerly considered to be a subspecies of Red-eyed Vireo, and is very similar in plumage (tending to be somewhat yellower underneath). Vocally, however, it is quite different.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
CAYENNE JAY (Cyanocorax cayanus) – We heard them calling from over our heads along the Harpy trail, but could never find enough of a gap to get a look at them. [*]
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)
BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla) – Super views of a pair along the Mahaica River, singing from the vegetation on the river's edge.
We saw plenty of Wattled Jacanas tiptoeing across lily pads and other floating vegetation in savanna oases. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLACK-COLLARED SWALLOW (Pygochelidon melanoleuca) – Fine views of several small groups lounging on the rocks in the middle of the Essequibo River. This species is virtually never found away from rocky rapids.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) – A few over the savanna patch along Surama's Buro-Buro trail, with others along the Rupununi River. Though similar in appearance to the Northern Rough-winged Swallow, this one has a paler rump and a butterscotch throat.
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) – Common and widespread throughout, seen in the skies everywhere but Atta. It's particularly common near water.
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera) – Far less widespread than the previous species, seen this trip only on our morning in the Rupununi savanna. Their browner backs and brown chest band make them easy to separate from the previous species.
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer) – Another common species, particularly at the coast, with some good up-close views of the pairs buzzing around emergent sticks along the Essequibo River. This is one of the smaller hirundines we see on the tour.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica) – A few streamed past as we birded along the coast road, where we stopped for a look at the Rufous Crab-Hawks. This is a winter visitor to Guyana. [b]
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus) – One twitched through some dense dangling vines along the Turtle Mountain trail, and another did the same along the Buro-Buro trail. We heard the "fingers along the comb's teeth" song of this little insectivore on both occasions.
TROPICAL GNATCATCHER (Polioptila plumbea) – The group that opted for the early bird walk on our last morning spotted a few while searching for the Rio Branco Antbird, and those who stayed behind found one with a Plain-crested Elaenia in a small bush in Yupukari.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
HOUSE WREN (SOUTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon clarus) – Regular along the coast (including singing birds right on the grounds of our hotel) with others around the cabins at Surama.
BICOLORED WREN (Campylorhynchus griseus) – Daily in the Rupununi savanna, including a churring, wing-waving group in some scrubby trees on our way back from the Crested Doradito trek. This species is often loosely associated with palm oases in the savanna.
CORAYA WREN (Pheugopedius coraya) – As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw, but we did get some very nice views of a pair low in bushes along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem road one morning, not far from where Jim spotted us a big group of Gray-winged Trumpeters.
When you get a good look at one, it's easy to understand how the spinetails -- like this Pale-breasted Spinetail -- get their names. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis) – We heard some singing from some dense growth along a little creek we crossed on the Buro-Buro trail, but we couldn't entice them out for a peek. This species often sings in duets. [*]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus) – Common in scrub and savanna areas throughout, where their songs were a regular part of the tour soundtrack -- even at our Georgetown hotel.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas) – Great views of a few trotting around on the lawn of a roadside restaurant we visited to top up our cooler's ice bags on the drive to Yupukari. This is an open-country thrush, common in scrubby savanna and around towns and villages.
COCOA THRUSH (Turdus fumigatus) – We heard the mellow songs of this accomplished singer on several mornings, along the Georgetown-Lethem highway and from the forest edge at Surama. [*]
WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) – One singing along the Buro-Buro track couldn't be lured into view. [*]
SPECTACLED THRUSH (Turdus nudigenis) – A rather distant look at a bird perched up in a leafless tree in Yupukari, seen on the return from the river by those who opted for the later bird walk on our final morning there.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
YELLOWISH PIPIT (Anthus lutescens) – One flew across in front of the van during the drive to Manari Ranch and landed close to the vehicle, allowing great extended views.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
FINSCH'S EUPHONIA (Euphonia finschi) – Our first was perched atop a scruffy tree in the open savanna scrub near Surama village. We had closer views of another along the edge of the forest on the Buro-Buro trail. This is a Guianan Shield endemic.
VIOLACEOUS EUPHONIA (Euphonia violacea) – A female along the Buro-Buro trail, in the same tree where we found the Fiery-tailed Awlbill. Females of this species are larger, greener and thicker-billed than females of the previous species, and show white on their undertails.
GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta) – Another female, though much further away than the previous two species, sitting right near the top of one of the tall trees at the far edge of a clearing along the Buro-Buro trail. The white belly and yellow vent on this one quickly separates it from all other female euphonias in Guyana.
Red-shouldered Macaws are the smallest of Guyana's macaws, barely larger than some parakeets. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia xanthogaster brevirostris) – Another euphonia in that great clearing along the Buro-Buro trail -- though another one at a fair distance atop some tall trees at the far edge of the open space. The male's yellow crown patch is larger than that of the male Finsch's, and the female shows a rusty patch on her forehead. And despite its name, the belly of the male of this subspecies is yellower rather than orange.
Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis) – Some lovely looks at this subtly-plumaged bird in the grassland patch at the start of Surama's Buro-Buro trail, with others in the Rupununi savanna.
PECTORAL SPARROW (Arremon taciturnus) – One in the first little forest patch along the Buro-Buro trail danced around us for ages before finally moving into the open on some eye-level branches. The bright yellow pectoral patches give this handsome bird its common name.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna) – Regular in the Rupununi savanna, where we heard more than we saw.
RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Leistes militaris) – Some folks saw one or more on the drive to the Ogle Airport, while others had to wait until we reached the Rupununi savanna. Until quite recently, this species was known as the Red-breasted Blackbird.
GREEN OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius viridis) – Seen in small numbers in the Iwokrama forest, with especially nice views of several pairs visiting the fruiting Cecropias in the Atta clearing.
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus) – As usual, this was seen far less often than the previous species, with only a single sighting of one briefly checking out the Cecropias in the clearing on Turtle Mountain.
YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) – Common throughout the Iwokrama forest portion of the tour, with especially good looks (and listens!) of those in the nesting colony outside our cabins at the Surama Eco-lodge. The number of calls they imitate is impressive! [N]
RED-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus haemorrhous) – We spotted a few along the Buro-Buro trail, but the birds in the nesting colony at Surama Junction (where we enjoyed lunch at Auntie Madonna's) allowed particularly nice views.
EPAULET ORIOLE (MORICHE) (Icterus cayanensis chrysocephalus) – A pair at the top of a tree at the edge of the clearing at IRL pulled our attention away from our first Spix's Guans. This subspecies was formerly considered to be a full species.
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus) – One flew into the big mango tree at Manari Ranch before our lunch there. Unfortunately, it was surprisingly hard to spot there, despite its bright colors!
The retina-searing colors of the Vermilion Flycatcher caught our attention when we emerged from the forest into the Rupununi savanna. Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
YELLOW ORIOLE (Icterus nigrogularis) – Abundant along the coast, with others along the Ireng River and at Manari Ranch. This species tends to be seen in more open habitats -- including right around houses.
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis) – Seen on scattered days, particularly along the coast and in savanna areas. Its dark eye helps to quickly separate it from the Carib Grackle.
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – Especially common at IRL, where groups of them trundled around the lawns and screeched from treetops near the boat dock.
CARIB GRACKLE (Quiscalus lugubris) – Quite common along deHoop Road on our drive out to the boat dock on the Mahaica River. Their bright yellow eyes, and the typical keel-shaped tail of the males, helps to quickly identify them.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia) – Scattered birds flitted across and along the Mahaica River, with a few others in the bushes along the lagoons at the Georgetown Botanical Garden. The "Field Checklist to the Birds of Guyana" lists this one as a winter visitor, with no known breeding in the country. [b]
FLAVESCENT WARBLER (Myiothlypis flaveola) – At least two or three confiding birds flicked through the bushes along the edge of the Ireng River, entertaining us while we waited for the Hoary-throated Spinetail to make an appearance.
RIVERBANK WARBLER (Myiothlypis rivularis) – All-too-brief views for a couple of us of a bird that waggled along a log in a creek we crossed on the Georgetown-Lethem road. Unfortunately, by the time we backed up to get another look, it had already moved and was never seen again.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni) – A male showed very well in scruffy bushes along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem road, shortly before we ventured in to the Harpy trail. For years, it wasn't clear where this species fit in the taxonomic tree, but genetic studies now show it belongs with the cardinals.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CAPPED CARDINAL (Paroaria gularis) – And this one, despite its common name, belongs with the tanagers! Linda spotted our first, along the Mahaica River, and we saw plenty more along rivers elsewhere -- often in groups, and sometimes with brown-faced youngsters in tow.
We struggled a bit for euphonias this trip, but a male Violaceous Euphonia proved very obliging at the Georgetown Botanical Garden. Photo by participant Tracy McLellan.
HOODED TANAGER (Nemosia pileata) – A pair in some scrubby trees just beyond the Surama community center (near where we stopped to check for White-naped Xenopsaris) were very obliging, spending long minutes in the open.
FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus) – A couple of females with big mixed flocks -- one in the Atta clearing, the other along the Georgetown-Lethem road -- distinguished by their nearly complete lack of field marks.
FULVOUS-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus surinamus) – A little group -- including a few black males -- in the midstory of the forest along the Turtle Mountain trail.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) – Abundant and widespread throughout the tour, with particularly good views of the regulars around the IRL dining room.
BLUE-BACKED TANAGER (Cyanicterus cyanicterus) – Fine views of several of these Guianan Shield endemics high in a tree along the Georgetown-Lethem road one afternoon. This is an uncommon forest species.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus) – Another abundant species, seen throughout the tour -- always in pairs. We had especially good views of the pair feeding a burgeoning nest full of chicks in a stubby shrub near the cabins at Atta. [N]
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) – Another abundant species, seen daily -- including some roosting on the rafters of the IRL dining room.
SPOTTED TANAGER (Ixothraupis punctata) – One with a mixed flock in the fruiting Cecropias at the edge of the Atta clearing for some of those who birded during one afternoon's break, with a couple of others seen along the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem road.
BURNISHED-BUFF TANAGER (Stilpnia cayana) – A small group flitted through the bushes along one of the tracks at Yupukari, seen by those who opted for the later bird walk there, and a few folks spotted another on the grounds of Caiman House.
TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana) – A little group flicked through trees near the traffic circle at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, and another little gang swirled through the fruiting Cecropia trees in the Atta clearing. The birds in Guyana (subspecies mexicana) have yellow bellies.
OPAL-RUMPED TANAGER (Tangara velia) – A youngster in a fruiting tree near the clearing on Turtle Mountain had us scratching our heads, until its parent arrived. Though fairly common in lowland forest, this isn't a species we regularly get a good look at.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) – A couple with a mixed flock along the Georgetown-Lethem road, not long after we'd spotted the Spotted Tanagers it was traveling with.
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata) – Folks out birding during an afternoon break at Atta saw one with a little mixed flock in the fruiting Cecropias. Most, though, had to wait until we found one along the Buro-Buro trail. The bright yellow eye is usually pretty noticeable.
Participant Tracy McLellan snapped this portrait of a Fork-tailed Woodnymph at rest -- a task made slightly easier by the presence of a nearby hummingbird feeder!
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana) – Regular in the Iwokrama forest, including females at Kaieteur Falls and clearing along the Turtle Mountain trail, a bright male in the fruiting Cecropias at Atta and several pairs near the start of the forest on the Buro-Buro trail. The blue head on the otherwise green female is distinctive.
PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus) – A pair briefly in some fruiting Cecropia trees along the edge of the clearing on Turtle Mountain. The male flashed his yellow legs for us before disappearing off with the rest of the mixed feeding flock.
RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus) – Regular in the Iwokrama forest, typically in small groups, including some along the Georgetown-Lethem road, a few around the Atta clearing, and others at the forest edge along the Buro-Buro trail.
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza) – Common in the Iwokrama forest, often in mixed feeding flocks with other honeycreepers (as in the clearing at Turtle Mountain) and dacnises (as in the Cecropias around the Atta clearing).
YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER (Hemithraupis flavicollis) – Doug spotted one of these small tanagers in the Atta clearing, as a mixed flock worked through the trees along the forest edge. The bright yellow rump and lower back of the male is distinctive.
BICOLORED CONEBILL (Conirostrum bicolor) – A few among the mangroves at the edge of the Hope Beach causeway, including one male that came in right over our heads.
GRASSLAND YELLOW-FINCH (Sicalis luteola) – Small flocks flitted out of the grass on the Rupununi savanna, fleeing from our vehicles or our footsteps and dropping back down with little tinkling calls.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) – Quite common along the coast, including a male doing little song jumps on the telephone wires right out in front of our Georgetown hotel, and another doing the same near the Fairview airstrip.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris) – Abundant on the grassy lawn around the Iwokrama River Lodge. This is a species that is regularly targeted by Guyana's caged bird trade.
RUDDY-BREASTED SEEDEATER (Sporophila minuta) – Our first was a drab female in the Surama grasslands. We caught up with the more colorful male along the Georgetown-Lethem road, and found groups of others decorating scruffy, largely leafless shrubs in the Rupununi savanna.
WING-BARRED SEEDEATER (Sporophila americana)
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis) – A small group worked their way through a patch of tall grass near the fence edging the Surama Eco-lodge, seen as we started our walk out to the Buro-Buro trail. We all agreed that "yellow" is more than a bit of an overstatement in describing the color of the male's whitish belly.
PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea) – Best seen on the drive south through the Rupununi savanna on our transfer to Yupukari, with others seen as we searched for Giant Anteaters and Crested Doraditos. The dark bill helps to separate males of this species from other similarly gray and white seedeaters in Guyana.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) – A few twitched through trees at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, and others did the same around the bridge where we enjoyed our sundowners en route to Yupukari, and along the Tacutu River on our final morning.
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) – We heard the squeaky calls of one from the far side of the river while enjoying our roti and curry second breakfast at Naresh's house, and those who traveled to the Brazilian border on our final morning saw a couple along the river's edge while searching for spinetails.
MAMMALS
COMMON OPOSSUM (Didelphis marsupialis) – One scrambled up the trunk of a tree along the edge of the IRL clearing, seen as we tried for Amazonian Pygmy-Owl after dinner one evening.
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso) – A little group of them clung to the bottom side of a dead snag leaning out low over the Essequibo River, looking like the proverbial bumps on a log -- until they took flight as we drifted past, that is. This species often roosts over water.
GREATER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio leporinus) – Dozens. Scores. Hundreds? A river of these big, reddish bats streamed past as dusk fell along the Rupununi River. Amazingly, these are fish-eating bats. They use their sonar to sense the ripples of small fish just below the surface, then use their feet to scoop said fish from the water.
RED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta seniculus) – Far more regularly heard than seen -- which isn't really surprising, considering their calls can carry a mile or more. We did see a small group, including a half-grown youngster, along the Turtle Mountain trail.
GUIANAN SAKI MONKEY (Pithecia pithecia) – Most of the gang got at least a quick look at a small troop in the primary forest along the Buro-Buro trail. This species, which is restricted to the northeast corner of South America, is also known as the White-faced Saki Monkey.
WEDGE-CAPPED CAPUCHIN (Cebus olivaceus) – A few troops encountered in the Iwokrama forest, including a band feeding in the treetops at a patch of white sand forest we birded. They were acting as beaters for a focused pair of Double-toothed Kites.
Somehow, this Wedge-capped Capuchin didn't seem particularly happy to see us. Photo by participant Cecilia Verkley.
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella) – One in a grove of trees at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, showing in fits and starts as it moved through the branches. This is one of the primate species known to use tools in food gathering.
BLACK SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles paniscus) – Some great looks at an agitated group along the Turtle Mountain trail; they were definitely not happy that we were in their patch of forest! One of the red-faced males hooted at us and thrashed the branch he was sitting on, and the whole troop continued to stare after us as we carried on down the trail.
GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) – One, looking like a discarded bit of old carpet, lay snuggled under a tree in the Rupununi savanna until local guide Clifford (aka "Anteater Man") woke it up. It trotted off into surrounding scrub to look for another place to sleep.
RED-RUMPED AGOUTI (Dasyprocta agouti) – Common in the Iwokrama forest, regularly seen scurrying across the Georgetown-Lethem road. This rodent is a favorite prey item of the Jaguar.
TAYRA (Eira barbara) – We saw these big weasels rippling their way across (or along) the Georgetown-Lethem road on a couple of days.
WEST INDIAN MANATEE (Trichechus manatus) – A half dozen or so basked in the shallows of one of the lagoons in the Georgetown Botanical Garden, where they've learned to lure humans into providing them with handfuls of grass.
Herps
GREEN IGUANA (Iguana iguana) – A few folks saw one at the Georgetown Botanical Garden.
COMMON HOUSE GECKO (Hemidactylus frenatus) – Common and widespread in the savanna, including multiple "room geckos" at the Surama Eco-lodge and Caiman House.
BLACK-COLLARED LIZARD (Tropidurus hispidus) – Regular around the Surama Eco-lodge, where they lounged in the sunshine on porches, steps and walls.
GIANT AMEIVA (Ameiva ameiva) – Abundant at Atta, where dozens scuttled around on the grassy lawn.
GOLDEN TEGU (Tupinambis teguixin) – One lumbered along beside the Mahaica River, and we spotted another in the clearing at Turtle Mountain. These big lizards can rival the Green Iguana in size.
BIRD-EATING SNAKE (Pseustes poecilonotus) – One in the Surama savanna showed us the bright yellow belly that helps to identify it. The species is a well-known predator of bird eggs.
TROPICAL (OR SOUTH AMERICAN) RATTLESNAKE (Crotalus durissus) – One lay coiled among the tussocks of grass along the edge of a marshy spot where we searched for Crested Doradito. It never moved, so we didn't hear its rattle.
BROWN VINE SNAKE (Oxybelis aeneus) – We found one of these whip-thin snakes in an area of small trees in the Rupununi savanna.
A Blue-and-yellow Macaw in the wild is a magnificent beastie. Photo by participant Marsha Hand.
FIRE SNAKE (Chironius scurrulus) – A big one glided through the trees on the edge of a creek in the Iwokrama forest, showing well the red color that gives it one of its common names. It's also known as the "Rusty Whipsnake" and the "Smooth Machete Savane".
SPECTACLED CAIMAN (Caiman crocodilus) – We spotted one hauled out on the side of a creek we crossed along the Georgetown-Lethem road, and saw others on our Rupununi River boat trip. This is a smaller caiman than the next species.
BLACK CAIMAN (Melanosuchus niger) – One loitered near the boat dock at the Iwokrama River Lodge, and we saw scores of others along the Rupununi River, which is one of their strongholds. The number of eyeballs reflecting our spotlight beams as we motored back to base after our evening outing there was truly impressive!
CANE TOAD (Rhinella marina) – Some of the gang saw one or more hopping around after dark on the grounds at Caiman House. These big toads are native in South America, but have been widely introduced elsewhere (including Australia) with disastrous results.
SOUTH AMERICAN COMMON TOAD (Rhinella margaritifer) – A few around the buildings at IRL, with others at Atta. This "species" has recently been shown to be a complex of closely related species, but the species breakdowns haven't been completely teased out yet.
GOLDEN ROCKET FROG (Anomaloglossus beebei) – A couple of these tiny frogs seen sheltering in the huge tank bromeliads at the edge of Kaieteur Falls. This species is endemic to that plateau!
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 380 bird taxa and 12 mammal taxa