January 4-15, 2025 with Micah Riegner & local guide
It’s hard to believe that this was already my fifth tour with Sean in Suriname, a rich and wonderfully pristine country with welcoming people, great birds and fantastic food. Day one we hit the ground running with Blood-colored Woodpeckers, Arrowhead Piculets and Crimson-hooded Manakins at the Paramaribo Botanical Gardens. Access to Peperpot was closed this year because of a marathon across the bridge to Meerzorg, but we ended up seeing the same set of birds at the botanical gardens. After a delicious Roti lunch in town, we made our way to Weg Naar Zee on the coast where we saw three Rufous Crab-Hawks, Pale-tipped Tyrannulets, Bicolored Conebill, Yellow Oriole and a pair of Cinereous Becards at a nest. We heard a migrant Northern Waterthrush, but it didn’t come into view. From the coast we drove to Colakreek and had Moksi Alesi, a Creole dish, prepared by Mell.
Before leaving for Brownsberg, we spent a morning birding the white-sand forest near Colakreek where we found Pale-bellied Mourner, Rufous-crowned Elaenias, Bronzy Jacamars, Saffron-crested Tyrant Manakins and some skulking Black Manakins. Then, after lunch we took off to Brownsberg with Buru the driver and Camero the cook. The road up was horrendous as usual, but Buru got us there with no problems. He’s one of the best Brownsberg drivers there is. Upon our arrival we flushed a small flock of Black Curassows, which we saw better later on.
Our first morning at Brownsberg we explored along the Mazaroni Overlook trail, where we found a pair of Collared Puffbirds, a male Black-throated Antshrike and a small group of Gray-winged Trumpeters. We tried for Wing-banded Antbird but got no response this time around. We spent the rest of the morning birding along the main road and had good looks at Guianan Toucanet, Ferruginous-backed Antbird and a troop of White-faced Sakis. In the afternoon we went farther out the Mazaroni Overlook trail and saw Marail Guans, Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Northern Slaty Antshrikes, Golden-sided Euphonia and Green Aracaris. Our second day at Brownsberg we birded the Mazaroni Road, getting great looks at a cooperative Musician Wren, some Spot-backed Antbirds, fly-by Lilac-tailed Parrotlets, and a canopy flock with Blue-backed Tanagers and a migrant Black-whiskered Vireo, a bird rarely seen in Suriname. That afternoon we found a pair of Red-billed Woodcreepers, one of my personal favorites. Camero prepared us a nice casava soup dinner, then we went owling and saw Foothill Screech-Owl and Spectacled Owl right outside the lodge clearing.
From Brownsberg, we descended into the lowlands, reaching Fredberg Lodge in the late afternoon, just in time to watch the Short-tailed Nighthawks circling overhead. The lodge had expanded since the last time I was there—now there are some brand-new rooms and a fabulous new dining area surrounded by Lantana flowers attracting Tufted Coquettes and Racket-tipped Thorntails.
Much of the birding we do at Fredberg is along the main road, getting in and out of the bus and walking stretches to find feeding flocks. Our first morning we came across a handsome Guianan Red Cotinga (my first for Suriname!), Ruddy Spinetail, and a busy feeding flock with Yellow-margined Flatbill, Eastern Olivaceous Flatbill and Guianan Woodcreepers. After lunch we took off to see the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock lek. We drove to the trailhead and walked about 45 minutes up a rather steep hill to get to the spot. Five males were displaying in the low vine tangles. It was spectacular! From the lek we walked up onto an inselberg, a granitic dome protruding from the forest, where we had great looks at Red-fan Parrots glowing in the afternoon light. We got back to the bus and waited until dusk to try our luck at Long-tailed Potoo. The bird called back and we found it way up in the tree. We watched it through the scope, then it took off into the forest. On our way back down to the bus, we saw it again, this time right off the trail. We all snuck up on it, getting within 5 feet as it sat there motionless. We were so close we could see the venation in its pupil. That was certainly the closest I’ve ever been to Long-tailed Potoo! On our way back for dinner we saw a Great Potoo and several Blackish Nightjars along the side of the road.
The next morning it rained, so we had breakfast and waited until it cleared before we went out. With limited time before lunch, we decided to bird the main road again. We made a few stops and saw Pompador Cotingas, Yellow-throated Woodpecker and Yellow-backed Tanagers at a termite hatch. There was an army ant swarm off the road with White-plumed Antbird and Rufous-throated Antbird; however, they were difficult to see well. We tried for Band-tailed Antshrike at a spot where Fred had seen one recently, and sure enough the birds called back. While we waited for them to approach, a cloud of winged termites descended upon us, literally covering everyone in the group. They weren’t biting, but they were annoying as heck, so we ended up abandoning the antshrikes for another time, even though they were close. On our way back to the lodge we found a feeding flock with some Glossy-backed Becards right before we stumbled upon a Harpy Eagle sitting majestically on the side of the road. We all piled out of the bus and watched it for about a minute before it sailed across, disappearing into the dense forest. That afternoon we drove out to the Capuchinbird lek. Along the way we saw a male Purple-breasted Cotinga, but it didn’t stick around for long, unfortunately. There were several fallen trees across the road, so Buru the driver had to get out and cut them. Good thing we had a chainsaw! We reached the Capuchinbird lek just in time and saw several males displaying up in the trees.
Boat-billed Tody-tyrant is another specialty of this tour. For this, we walked several kilometers through the forest to a territory where we’ve seen the bird in the past. The bird, which is the size of a kinglet, likes dense vine tangles that grows on granite boulders. On our way we heard Tiny Tyrant-manakin and saw a Rufous-capped Antthrush, Fulvous Shrike-Tanager and a troop of Guianan Bearded Sakis, another first for me in Suriname. Sadly, the Tody-tyrant wasn’t home; however, on our way back we managed to find Yellow-billed Jacamar, White-chested Puffbird, a Whistling Woodcreeper (a recent split from Long-tailed) and, most astonishingly, Sean got us on a pair of Red-and-black Grosbeaks! I had lost all hope in seeing them after leaving Brownsberg, so it was great to catch up with such a spectacular regional specialty! In the afternoon we went up to the Rusty Tinamou territory and waited for it to show. It called back, so I set up the Bluetooth speaker to get it to cross the road. Meanwhile, two male Crimson Fruitcrows landed in the tree right above us. The tinamou crossed several times in front of us, so we had to choose between watching the tinamou and watching the fruitcrows!
Before leaving Fredberg we tried for Zigzag Heron along the Little Saramaca River. The bird came in, and after lots of effort, Sean and I managed to scope it through the dense, dimly lit vegetation. Nearby we saw Cocoa Thrush and White-browed Antbird, two more riverine species. After lunch and saying goodbye to the staff at Fred’s, we drove to Colakreek. Before reaching Colakreek we stopped at the bridge over Babunkriki where we saw a handsome male Rose-breasted Chat. Mell prepared a nice peanut soup for us when we arrived, and after dinner we went for a final night of owling. Along the main road we saw Common Potoos and a close male White-tailed Nightjar, and then back at Colakreek we found a Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl and a pair of Black-banded Owls to add to our impressive list of nightbirds for the tour.
For our final day of the tour we birded several white-sand sites around Colakreek, first finding Point-tailed Palmcreeper in a stand of Mauritia Palms, before driving out to the Hannover Savanna. Here, we saw the nest of Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet and amazingly it was made of dried-up mistletoe seeds! Way cool. We heard a Smoky-fronted Tody-flycatcher that didn’t exactly show itself and saw several Red-shouldered Tanagers. We then moseyed on over to the O.P. Savanna and found Campina Thrush in no time at all. The bird sat up in a bush and we all enjoyed it through the scope. Next stop was the Zanderij Airport. We drove out to a spot where Sean has seen Green-tailed Goldenthroat recently and, after some searching, the bird showed up! After lunch we drove to the Vier Kinderen Road, which leads through some taller forest. Here, we caught up with Yellow-crowned Elaenia, a close Spotted Puffbird, a pair of Finsch’s Euphonias and a small flock of Red-bellied Macaws before we headed back for dinner and to pack for flights the next morning.
There are several people I’d like to thank for making this tour a success. First, I’d like to thank Karen in our office for setting everything up for us, my colleague Sean for yet another great trip together, Camero and Mell for some fabulous meals, the staff at Fredberg Lodge for taking such good care of us, and Buru, our driver, for taking us down roads few bus drivers can drive. Lastly, I’d like to thank you all for joining us in Suriname and I look forward to seeing you again in the field!
Mammals
Proboscis Bat (Rhynchonycteris naso) These were under a log near the river at Fredberg.
Greater Sac-winged Bat (Saccopteryx bilineata) We saw a few under a shack at Brownsberg.
Golden-handed Tamarin (Saguinus midas) Seen a couple times at Fredberg.
Guianan Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri sciureus) Seen our first day at the Paramaribo Botanical Gardens.
Red Howler (Alouatta seniculus) These were often around the lodge clearing at Brownsberg.
White-faced Saki (Pithecia pithecia) Brownsberg is one of the best places in the world to see this striking primate.
Guianan Bearded Saki (Chiropotes satanas) We saw this uncommon primate along the trail at Fredberg.
Red-faced Black Spider Monkey (Ateles paniscus) Heard regularly from the Brownsberg overlook.
Linnaeus's Two-toed Sloth (Choloepus didactylus) We had amazing views of one at night at Brownsberg.
Pale-throated Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus tridactylus) Seen at the Paramaribo Botanical Gardens.
Guianan Squirrel (Sciurus aestuans) We saw one at Brownsberg thanks to Sean’s heatscope.
Neotropical Pygmy Squirrel (Sciurillus pusillus) Heard a couple times at Brownsberg. We never actually saw it, unfortunately.
Common Red-rumped Agouti (Dasyprocta leporina) Seen at Brownsberg.
Tayra (Eira barbara) We saw a leucistic individual cross the road at Fredberg. It looked like a miniature polar bear.
Jaguar (Panthera onca) Tracks on the road at Fredberg.
Common Red Brocket (Mazama americana) We saw one at the clearing at Brownsberg.
Amphibians
Anomaloglossus baeobatrachus The smaller brown poison dart frogs at Brownsberg.
Ameerega trivitatta This gorgeous poison dart frog with green stripes had tadpoles on his back at Brownsberg.
Leptodactylus pentadactylus Seen on our night outings at Brownsberg.
Rhaebo gutattus The big toads we saw at Brownsberg.
Rhinella margaritifera The camouflaged toad we saw on our forest hike at Fredberg.
Cane Toad (Rhinella marina)
Rhinella merianeae The toads we saw around the lodge at Fredberg.
Physalaemus ephippifer These were in the pools along the road at Brownsberg.
Reptiles
Thecadactylus rapicauda The geckos inhabiting the lodge at Brownsberg.
South American Spotted Skink (Copeoglossum nigropunctatum) The skinks we saw at Brownsberg.
Green Iguana (Iguan iguana) We saw a few around Paramaribo.
Plica plica We saw one on a log at Fredberg.
Amaeva amaeva The big whiptails at Brownsberg and Fredberg.
Cnemidophorus lemniscatus The smaller whiptails at Brownsberg.
Kentropyx calcarata
Golden Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin) These enormous lizards we saw at the Paramaribo Botanical Gardens and at Colakreek.
Chironius sp. The snake we saw on the road below Brownsberg.
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/321230
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/sus25TRIPLIST.pdf
Micah