January 14-22, 2025 with Willy Perez & local guide Roger Rodriguez
Colombia is a birdwatcher's dream—home to the largest number of bird species in the world. What made our adventure even more unforgettable was the rapidly growing birdwatching infrastructure, offering numerous opportunities to observe these beautiful creatures. Our journey through the Eastern Cordillera of Colombia, one of the most biodiverse regions on Earth, was nothing short of magical. Nestled in the heart of the Andes, this region is a paradise for birders, with lush cloud forests, high-altitude páramos, and vibrant valleys, all teeming with unique birds, great coffee, and even better food.
We spent a few days in Bogotá as our base and ventured to two charming lodges on either side of the mountains. This gave us the chance to immerse ourselves in completely different habitats. The first morning, we gathered early for a quick cup of coffee before we hit the road. After an hour’s drive, we stopped at a local parador for breakfast. The aroma of fresh arepas, orange juice, yogurt, and eggs filled the air. Some of us indulged in a comforting bowl of caldo de Costilla, a traditional local soup. The parador had some feeders, and we were thrilled to catch our first glimpses of hummingbirds.
Our next stop was Laguna Tabacal, where we birded the car park for a bit before heading to the lake area. We ventured down a side road, and the birding was nothing short of spectacular. Spectacled Parrotlets and Bar-crested Antshrikes graced our day, and we could feel the excitement building. After a fruitful morning, we headed to La Vega town for a well-deserved lunch.
Following our meal, we visited Jardin Encantado—an absolute gem for hummingbird lovers. The place was buzzing with activity, and we marveled at the Black-throated Mango, White-bellied Woodstar, and the endemic Indigo-capped Hummingbird. It was like being in a dream. We lingered here for a while before continuing our journey to the Gyrola Hotel in La Mesa. The views from the lodge were stunning, and we were greeted by birds just outside our rooms—be prepared for the noisy but charming Colombian Chachalacas.
The next day was an adventure in itself as we visited Chicaque and Campo Tangara. After an early start, we birded the area near the entrance, and before long, flocks of tanagers, brushfinches, and furnariids were in full view. The two-kilometre downhill walk was a bit challenging for some of us, but the birds made it absolutely worth it. We eventually reached El Refugio for lunch, and after a relaxing break, we spent time in the garden, where we spotted the rare Black Inca. With our spirits high, we took a four-wheel-drive vehicle in two groups to ascend back to the top. Our next stop was Campo Tangara, a small reserve known for its stunning hummingbirds, especially the Golden-bellied Starfrontlet.
Our next destination, Laguna de Pedro Palo, was just as lively, with plenty of bird activity along the road. We had some fantastic sightings, including a Whiskered Puffbird, Red-headed Barbet, Ash-browed Spinetail, and a variety of tanagers. After lunch at El Rancho de Jairo, we made our way back to Bogotá, arriving in the evening for a check-in, list review, and, of course, a delicious dinner.
The following day, we set off to Parque Nacional Natural Chingaza. We were greeted by Ana, our knowledgeable local guide, at La Calera. The elfin forest here was nothing short of enchanting, and we spotted flocks of Hooded, Black-chested, and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, along with a Rufous-browed Conebill and a Crimson-mantled Woodpecker. After birding until late morning, we returned to La Calera for a delicious ajiaco lunch—a much-needed treat. Although road closures delayed our visit to the Observatorio de Colibris, we finally reached the spot, where the hummingbirds were as active as ever. The highlight, though, was spotting a pair of Tropical Screech Owls, which was an unexpected but exciting surprise.
We then headed to Sumapaz National Natural Reserve, Chiguaza, and Reserva Camana. After an early start, we found the Green-bearded Helmetcrest, a rare sighting. Daniel from Chiguaza treated us to a wonderful field breakfast, making the morning even more special. The landscape of the páramo was unlike anything I’ve ever seen—unique and breathtaking. After lunch, we explored the Chiguaza Reserve, and later enjoyed coffee at Casa Hillebrand, where we were treated to an unexpected sighting of the Band-bellied Owls roosting in the gardens of the coffee plantation. Our journey continued to Camana, where we arrived in the evening, enjoyed dinner, and reflected on the incredible birding.
The next day at Bosque Bavaria was an unforgettable experience, especially with Elvis, our local guide. We saw so many exciting species before heading to a nearby road where we encountered Hoatzins, Scarlet Ibis, Boat-billed Herons, and more. After lunch, we took some time to rest before more birding at the feeders and a trip to the Cumaral-Restrepo road. There, we found a Great Potoo, Scaled Piculet, and Amazonian Motmot. And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, a Giant Anteater made an appearance. What a treat!
On our last day of birding, we headed to La Herrería. After a coffee and a drive up the hill with Ariel, we reached the top, where we were treated to the rare sighting of the Cundinamarca Antpitta. We were hosted by a warm family who made us feel right at home with a delicious breakfast. Afterward, we headed back toward Bogotá, making a final stop at Parque La Florida, where we had an exciting sighting of the Bogotá Rail along with other water species. Our journey back to Bogotá was bittersweet, but we ended it with a final dinner, a drink with Jesse, and lots of reflections on the incredible adventure we had shared together.
This trip through the Eastern Cordillera of Colombia was far more than just a birding experience. It was a deep connection with nature, local culture, and the wonderful people who made it all possible. I am so grateful to each of you for joining me on this unforgettable journey. Thank you for making it so special!
Other animals seen:
Ornate Titi Monkey, Brumback’s Night Monkey, Colombian Squirrel Monkey and Giant Anteater.
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/342891
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/cba25TRIPLIST.pdf
Abrazos, Willy from Dorset