January 3-14, 2026 with Micah Riegner & Sam Wilson & Sean Dilrosun
It’s hard to believe that this was already my 6th tour to Suriname, a country I’ve come to love for its warm and welcoming people, its terrific food, its wild forests, and of course its great birds. Each tour is subtly different, bringing new surprises around each bend of the muddy roads. So, let’s jump right in! We began our adventure in Paramaribo where Sean, our five-star local guide, and Buru, our legendary driver, picked us up at the hotel. Our first stop was Gunny’s Park, a dirt road winding through some coastal forest where we saw the endemic Arrowhead Piculet and the near-endemic Blood-colored Woodpecker within the first five minutes, then Pale-tipped Tyrannulet, Yellow Oriole, Green-throated Mango, Cinereous Becards, Ashy-headed Greenlet and both Pale-breasted and Yellow-chinned Spinetails. Not a bad way to start the tour! We then drove a short distance to the Leonsberg boat dock on the Suriname River to check for Rufous Crab Hawk, which wasn’t around, but we did see a close Bicolored Conebill and a few distant shorebirds. We swung by Chocopot and picked up a glowing male Crimson-hooded Manakin just outside the bus, and on the way out we saw Brown Capuchins, Guianan Squirrel Monkeys and a Pale-throated Three-toed Sloth. We were ahead of schedule, so we visited the coast at Weg Naar Zee before lunch and had great views of some close Rufous Crab Hawks, more Yellow Orioles, Gray Kingbird, Savanna Hawk a flyover Long-winged Harrier and a young Scarlet Ibis. We had a delicious Roti lunch back in town, then drove through Cozyville, a gated community with some ponds and a trail through some forest edge habitat. Here, we called in a Yellow-crowned Elania and Cinnamon Attila before driving out to Colakreek. Along our way out we stopped at a random pull-out in town where we saw several Purple Gallinules in a gully full of water hyacinth. We reached Colakreek, but the rooms weren’t ready, so we birded for an hour on the Vier Kinderen Road, finding a pair of Spotted Puffbirds, Guira Tanagers and our first Black-spotted Barbets. We settled into our cabins, then had a wonderful dinner prepared by Mell. After dinner some of us walked the grounds of Colakreek where we had nice close views of Black-banded Owl.
The next day, we birded a white-sand forest site called Kakanku, where we saw Bronzy Jacamars, Sulphur-bellied Tyrant Manakins, Southern White-fringed Antwrens, Rufous-crowned Elaenias, and a pair of Pale-bellied Mourners. From there, we drove to O.P. Savanna and found Campina Thrush plus a pair of Point-tailed Palmcreepers singing from some Mauritia Palms on the opposite side of the road. We heard Ash-throated Crake, but it didn’t come into view—all we could see was the shaking grass. We drove part way around the Zanderij Airport and had nice, close Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures, Burrowing Owls, some Grassland Sparrows, and roosting Lesser Nighthawks, then we returned to Colakreek where Mell prepared us Bruine Bonnen, a typical Surinamese beans and rice dish. We loaded up and drove the hour to Brownsweg, where we shopped for some final supplies, met Camero, the cook, and said goodbye to pavement for the next several days. After a muddy ride up to Brownsberg, we settled in the rooms, then birded the clearing in the late afternoon. A pair of Guianan Toucanets were coming to a nesting cavity near the overlook.
Camero made us a nice breakfast complete with fresh baked bread, then we walked the first section of the Mazaroni Overlook trail. It was super foggy and notably froggy. We saw a Three-striped Poison Dart Frog with tadpoles on its back, and several Brownsberg Rocket Frogs vocalizing on some low branches. We then walked out the main road where a family of Gray-winged Trumpeters (with chicks!) strutted around right in the open. Awesome! Farther down, we ran into an impressive understory flock with both Dusky-throated and Cinereous Antshrikes, the “flock leaders”, and their associates: White-flanked, Gray, and Long-winged Antwrens, Brown-bellied Stipplethroat, Chestnut-rumped and Buff-throated Woodcreepers, Amazonian Plain-Xenops, Guianan Greenlet, Wing-barred Piprites, and Amazonian Antshrike. We took the shortcut from the Mazaroni Road back to the headquarters and saw Spot-backed and Ferruginous-backed Antbirds along the trail. Great first morning. Camero prepared a wonderful Indonesian chicken with peanut sauce lunch, then we took a siesta and, in the afternoon, we walked down a steep trail where we encountered White-throated and White-fronted Manakins. The final part of the afternoon we birded the main clearing and watched Green Oropendolas snatching giant winged termites acrobatically from the air. We also saw Red-throated Caracaras, Golden-sided and Golden-bellied Euphonias, and an Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, a scarce bird up at Brownsberg.
Our second Brownsberg morning, we birded the Mazaroni Road, the road that straddles the Mazaroni Plateau. We did a lot of walking and came across a pair of Rufous-bellied Antwrens, a Guianan Warbling Antbird on a nest and a canopy flock with Blue-backed Tanagers, Guianan Tyrannulet, Yellow-throated Flycatchers, Yellow-throated Woodpecker and an Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper. We called in a pair of Waved Woodpeckers and heard a pair of Lined Forest-Falcons, but they didn’t approach us whatsoever. So be it. Before turning around, we saw another feeding flock with Todd’s Antwren, another high canopy bird. After lunch I went back down to the White-throated Manakin lek with Steve and we saw the males coming down to land on the log. We also saw Black Bearded Sakis, one of the tougher primates to see in Suriname. We then met the rest of the group and walked out the Mazaroni Overlook trail. On our way out, we heard a Middle American Screech-Owl vocalizing in broad daylight, so we searched hard for it and found it in a vine tangle. It was a super rusty individual. We also found a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers that were evidently nesting in a giant tree. From the overlook we saw Northern Slaty Antshrikes, then we headed back to beat an oncoming storm. After dinner, some of us took a night walk and found a Gibba Toad-headed Turtle in one of the ponds. We watched a Ghost Bat circling over the Brownsberg clearing and Sam managed to get some flight shots of it--more easily said than done.
We had one more morning to bird Brownsberg before packing up and leaving for Fred’s, so we walked the main road trying for the last major targets. We found both Chestnut and Golden-collared Woodpeckers, the nest of Golden-headed Manakin, thanks to Sam and his heat scope, then came a lineup of some fantastic puffbirds within the span of about a half hour. First, we saw a pair of Guianan Puffbirds in a snag, then while I was playing Collared Puffbird, Sam picked up on a pair of White-chested Puffbirds that had flown in. Farther along, we got a response from a Collared Puffbird that showed really well for us. Our final birds of the morning were Ringed Woodpecker and Great Jacamars, then Buru picked us up and drove us up for our final Brownsberg lunch. After lunch we drove down to Brownsweg where we stopped for some ice cream. We then drove the rest of the way to Fredberg, stopping along the way for a perched Dusky Parrot and an eye-level Black-faced Hawk. Super! We reached Fredberg Lodge and settled into the new rooms and watched a Giant River Otter in the Little Saramaca River.
We had a tremendous first day at Fredberg. We started out birding along the river where we saw Black-tailed Trogon, Capuchinbird and Green Aracaris at a fruiting tree across the river, then we walked out the main road where we had our first Guianan Trogon, Chapman’s Swifts, Yellow-green Grosbeaks, Red-billed Pied Tanagers, Glossy-backed Becards, Brown Jacamars, Purple-breasted Cotingas and Purple-throated Fruitcrows. There was some kind of termite hatch attracting lots of birds, including Forest Elaenias, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Guianan Streaked Antwrens and Golden-spangled Piculet. We had lunch, then left for the Cock-of-the-rock lek shortly thereafter. There were loads of hummingbirds coming to the lantana flowers around the dining area including Racket-tipped Thorntails, Tufted Coquettes, White-chinned Sapphires, Gray-breasted Sabrewings and Fork-tailed Woodnymphs. We drove out to the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock lek and watched a gorgeous male that lingered for photos. Meanwhile, a Gray-crowned Flatbill flew into view, giving a strange voice I hadn’t heard before. We then walked up the granite inselberg and Sean called in a female Crimson Fruitcrow that landed right at eye level… un-be-lievable! On the way back down the hill, we saw a male Amazonian Antshrike and a pair of Wing-barred Piprites. We reached the bus and waited until dark to try for Long-tailed Potoo where we had seen it the year before. Some Colombian Red Howlers crossed the trail as it was getting dark, and we heard Collared Puffbird and Amazonian Motmot. We played for the potoo but got no response, then we drove back, making a couple more stops for White-winged Potoo. Nothing from that either. Darn. We had a late dinner back at the lodge then went to bed.
The next day we tried for Zigzag Heron and, after patiently waiting, we finally had two birds in view. We include a short video clip of that here in the report. Then, as we drove out the main road, several Pompadour Cotingas crossed in front of us, males, females and subadult males, so we stopped to check them out. In that same area, we called in a family of Todd’s Sirystes, a pair of Glossy-backed Becards, and a female Fulvous-crested Tanager. We birded further out the road, finding Black Curassow and our first Pied Puffbirds. That afternoon, we walked the trails behind the lodge and saw Spotted Antpitta, Rufous-tailed Flatbill, White-browed Antbird and a close Silvered Antbird. We had a brief look at White-throated Spadebill and we marveled at the nest of a Ruddy Spinetail, an incredibly complex structure of twigs, complete with leaves for shingles to keep out the rain.
The following day we birded the main road again but we had to turn around due to a fallen tree (later on, another group would remove the tree). At our turn-around spot we saw Mealy Amazons, Opal-rumped Tanagers, White-lored Tyrannulet, a migrant Olive-sided Flycatcher, a young male Spangled Cotinga and a couple more Pompador Cotingas. We watched a pair of Black-crowned Tityras bringing dead leaves to line their nest cavity. Nearing the lodge we came across a group of Golden-handed Tamarins, both Crimson-crested and Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers and some allopreening Red-Fan Parrots. After lunch we went back out on the main road to try for more feeding flocks. We saw Blackish Antbirds near the bridge and heard McConnel’s Spinetail, but it didn’t show. Our plan was to try for White-winged Potoo again right at dusk but it started raining, so we abandoned that mission. We did, however, see a male Crimson Topaz at the bridge and Sean called in an Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner, our first and only foliage-gleaner for the tour.
We squeezed one more morning of birding at Fredberg before we left for Colakreek. We first checked the river and saw three Black-chinned Antbirds, a perched female Crimson Topaz, and some Painted Parakeets feeding on some yellow flowers, then we drove out the main road, checking several spots for Band-tailed Antshrike, which sadly didn’t show. Along one of the side trails we found a pair of Black-throated Antbirds, then our attention was drawn to an army ant swarm. Yay! It had been years since we’d seen a swarm on the tour. At the swarm were White-plumed and Rufous-throated Antbirds and Plain-brown Woodcreepers, all attentively snatching insects that were escaping the swarming ants. We spent a good while with the swarm, then tried to see Tiny Tyrant-Manakin that went silent on us. We returned to the lodge, had lunch, then made our way out toward Colakreek, stopping for ice cream again at Brownsweg. Before reaching Colakreek we stopped at the bridge at Babunkriki and heard Rose-breasted Chat, but unfortunately it didn’t show. Mell prepared us another great dinner, then we went owling. First, we went to some open fields where we saw a White-tailed Nightjar and a distant Common Potoo, then we saw both Tawny-bellied and Tropical Screech-Owls right around Colakreek. The Black-banded Owl called, too, but we had already seen it earlier.
We had one final day to bird around Colakreek and pick up some of the white-sand specialties. We were on our way out when Sam spotted a flock of Cayenne Jays nearby, so we stopped to watch them for a while. Awesome birds. We then made attempts to see Black Manakin, a surprisingly difficult bird to see. A male kept zipping through the forest and overshooting us landing in view for a split second before zipping off. Next was a stop at Hannover Savanna where we heard Smoky-fronted Tody-Flycatcher and saw our first Black-faced Tanagers, Plain-crested Elaenias and Variegated Flycatcher. We then drove over to the other side of Kakanku and had nice looks at Spectacled Thrush, Slender-billed Xenops, spotted by Suzi, and Scaled Pigeons in good light. A bit of pygmy-owl tape brought in White-lored and Yellow-crowned Tyrannulets, Green-tailed Goldenthroat, and an eye-level Chivi Vireo. Before we left that spot, we called in a Smoky-fronted Tody-Flycatcher that showed quite nicely for us. My best views ever, as a matter of fact. On our way back we made another stop at the Babunkriki where we found some Pachylis pharaonis insects clustered on some bushes. They resemble assassin bugs, but they’re in a different family. Mell prepared us another great lunch, then we went back out around the airport for a final afternoon of birding. We heard a close Red-legged Tinamou and saw White-tailed Hawks, Burnished-buff Tanagers, Rufous-crowned Elaenias, Eastern Meadowlarks and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters. A nice set of birds to finish the tour with.
There are numerous people we’d like to thank for making this yet another successful Suriname tour. First, we’d like to thank Karen in the office for all the background arrangements, Sean our fantastic local guide, Buru the driver, Mell and Camero for some fabulous meals, and the staff at Fredberg Lodge for taking such good care of us.
I have mixed emotions about taking a break from Suriname next year—I’ll definitely miss the magnificent forests, the antbirds and puffbirds, but Sam and Sean will do a great job next year, and I’m excited about picking up NE Brazil with Marcelo Barreiros where there will be many more antbirds to come!
Mammals
Proboscis Bat (Rhynchonycteris naso) Richard spotted these on a trunk across the river from Fredberg Lodge.
Lesser Ghost Bat (Diclidurus scutatus) A few of us watched one circling overhead at Brownsberg and Sam managed to get some flight shots!
Golden-handed Tamarin (Saguinus midas) We ran into these at Brownsberg, but our best views were off the road at Fredberg.
Guianan Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri sciureus) We saw some on the road to Chocopot.
Colombian Red Howler (Alouatta seniculus) Heard regularly at Brownsberg. We finally saw some at dusk at Fredberg.
White-faced Saki (Pithecia pithecia) Always a fun one to see! We saw them a couple times at Brownsberg.
Northern Bearded Saki (Chiropotes sagulatus) Seen at the Manakin trail by Steve. We heard some, too, on the main road at Brownsberg.
Brown Capuchin (Sapajus apella) We saw some on the road to Chocopot.
Red-faced Black Spider Monkey (Ateles paniscus) Heard at Brownsberg.
Pale-throated Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus tridactylus) Sean spotted one on our way out of Chocopot.
Common Red-rumped Agouti (Dasyprocta leporina) We saw a few at Brownsberg.
Giant River Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) This was my first Giant Otter in Suriname. We saw it in the river across from Fredberg.
Jaguar (Panthera onca) Tracks in the mud at Fredberg.
Reptiles
Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) We saw a juvenile at Fredberg.
Golden Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin) We flushed a few at Cozyville.
Giant Ameiva (Ameiva ameiva)
Striped Forest Whiptail (Kentropyx calcarata) We saw a few at Brownsberg.
Collared Treerunner (Plica plica) On the trunk near the White-throated Manakin spot at Brownsberg.
Underwood's Spectacled Tegu (Gymnophthalmus underwoodi) The tiny skinks we saw at Colakreek.
South American Spotted Skink (Copeoglossum nigropunctatum) Sam spotted this guy from the bus as we were heading up to Brownsberg.
Bridled Forest Gecko (Gonatodes humeralis) We saw a few of these at Fredberg.
Peters' Lava Lizard (Tropidurus hispidus) Seen on the granite inselberg at Fredberg.
Goldenscale Anole (Anolis chrysolepis) These were the camouflaged anolis lizards we saw on the Mazaroni Road at Brownsberg.
Gibba Toad-headed Turtle (Mesoclemmys gibba) This was the turtle that Sam picked up in the pond at Brownsberg.
Amphibians
Drylands Tree Frog (Boana xerophylla) Both at Brownsberg and Fredberg.
Sipaliwini Robber Frog (Pristimantis zeuctotylus) Seen at Brownsberg.
Barred Monkey Frog (Callimedusa tomopterna) One was seen in the hallway at Brownsberg.
Lesser Tree Frog (Dendropsophus minutus) The small yellow frogs at Brownsberg.
Brownsberg Rocket Frog (Anomaloglossus saramaka) The small brown frogs we saw vocalizing on the branches at Brownsberg.
Three-striped Poison Frog (Ameerega trivittata) Common at Brownsberg. We saw one at Fredberg, too.
Knudsen’s Thin-toed Frog (Leptodactylus knudseni) Pretty common on our night walks at Brownsberg.
Loreto White-lipped Frog (Leptodactylus rhodomystax) There were a few of these on the roads at Brownsberg.
Steindachner's Dwarf Frog (Physalaemus ephippifer) These were the frogs with the mewing call we heard all over the place at Brownsberg and Fredberg.
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/465042
You can see my iNaturalist report of non-avian taxa at this link: https://www.inaturalist.org/projects/field-guides-suriname-tour-2026?tab=observations
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/sus26TRIPLIST.pdf
-- Micah