Trip Report — Mexico: Oaxaca Valley I 2026

March 1-8, 2026 with Chris Benesh & Doug Gochfeld

One of the many fabulous Red Warblers seen in the pine-oak forests on Cerro San Felipe. Photo by Doug Gochfeld.

Mexico’s state of Oaxaca sits in an enviable, biologically diverse place, offering a rich variety of habitats ranging from lowland thorn scrub in the Pacific to mixed coniferous forest in the highlands, descending into rich cloud forest on the Gulf slope. It has the most diverse avifauna of any state in Mexico. The Oaxaca Valley tour is designed to tap into a couple of distinct areas that are high in regional endemism. These include the arid, cactus-rich habitat that forms a fringe around the interior of Oaxaca, as well as the oak and pine-oak zones that rise above these. Our tour had six days to explore these varied habitats.

Slaty Vireo is unlike any other; its dark slaty plumage with contrasting chartreuse crown, wings, and tail, and piercing white eyes can elicit an audible gasp from the observer when first sighted. Often skulking, we had a couple of exceptional sightings. Photo by Chris Benesh.

The floor of the Oaxaca Valley, at around 5000 feet in elevation, has been heavily anthropogenically altered.  A flourishing mezcal production industry has transformed natural cactus thorn-scrub into fields of agave in many places. Yet despite this, many of the original avian inhabitants still thrive in places. This is important as many occur nowhere else on Earth. Our tour began exploring some of this habitat near the town of Teotitlan del Valle, including birding around one of the region's most precious resources, water. The reservoir of Piedra Azul was filled with a variety of waterbirds and others coming to it to drink and bathe. The habitat surrounding Monte Alban, Highway 175 near Pollo Niño, Presa La Mina, and Kilometer 77 were other examples of thornscrub. Here such goodies as Bridled Sparrow, Slaty and Golden vireos, Pileated and Nutting’s flycatchers, Black-vented and Streak-backed orioles, West Mexican Chachalacas, and many others were found.

We also had great views of Golden Vireo, another of Mexico’s endemic vireos. Photo by Doug Gochfeld.

Venturing higher into the mountains, thornscrub gives way to oaks, then long-needled pines, and ultimately, a splendid mix of giant oaks and pines, these shrouded in epiphytes. Here is habitat for a memorable assortment of birds. Red and Golden-browed warblers, Dwarf Jay, Gray-barred Wren, Russet Nightingale-Thrush, Long-tailed Wood-Partridge, Brown-backed Solitaire, Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo, Rufous-capped and Chestnut-capped brushfinches, and Black-headed Siskins are just a tiny sample of what is possible. Thankfully, we had a some really wonderful experiences in the highlands. That first magical hour or two at La Cumbre where birds were coming fast and furious. And then there was the hot chocolate and feast at Restaurant Colibri. 

Perhaps the most sought after of the highland birds on this tour is Dwarf Jay, an endemic with a tiny range that travels around with Gray-barred Wrens and Steller’s Jays. This one was photographed by Chris Benesh.

Doug and I have a reputation for bringing rain to drought-stricken areas, and we even managed to squeeze out a little rain in the highlands during our night birding up on Cerro San Felipe. Not ideal for the owls we were seeking, but it didn’t keep us from enjoying an endemic scorpion (Vaejovis franckei) and a small Myotis bat roosting at a dry spot out of the rain. We also took in the Tule Tree, an ancient, massive Montezuma Cypress tree in the town of Santa Maria del Tule. We also had a mezcal during lunch one day, and a demonstration of rug dyeing and weaving in Teotitlan del Valle. And importantly, Jorge Herrera gave us expert guided tours of Monte Alban and Mitla, highlighting the important cultural significance of the region.

One of the most exciting finds of the tour began with John spotting a Long-tailed Wood-Partridge poking its head up above the edge of the road as we were driving past. We were eventually treated to a calling bird coming completely into the open. Wow! Photo by Chris Benesh.

Doug and I wish to thank all of you for joining us on this adventure in Mexico. The group really makes the trip, and y’all were wonderful. 

Oaxaca Sparrow is a skulky species endemic to the arid interior of Oaxaca. We were fortunate to have a couple of wonderful sightings including this bird photographed by Doug Gochfeld.

You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/490116

You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/oax26aTRIPLIST.pdf

-- Chris