July 30-August 12, 2026 with Micah Riegner & Bret Whitney
Vertebrate-rich is how I’d characterize our Great Rivers of the Amazon tour this year. Birds were our main focus, of course, but we also saw numerous rare and endemic primates, river dolphins virtually every day, lots of cool rats and porcupines and we even saw a group of Giant Otters on a narrow blackwater creek. Logistics ran smoothly thanks to “normal” water levels in the Amazon and its tributaries, permitting access to Reserva Mamiraua, Amana and the Tefe National Forest—three wonderfully intact chunks of Amazonia few birders get to visit.
Day one of the trip was mostly a travel day. We flew from Manaus to Tefe with a layover in Tabatinga, arriving in Tefe in the early afternoon. From there, we shuttled over to the boat dock to board the speedboat to Uakari Lodge, the floating lodge in the middle of Mamiraua Sustainable Development Reserve where we’d spend the next few days immersed in the largest swath of flooded forest on Earth! We settled into the cabins, then left for the Apara Channel where we saw our first Short-tailed Parrots, Festive Amazons, Hoatzins, White-eared Jacamars and Yellow-chinned Spinetails. We also saw a troop of Vanzolini's, or Black-headed Squirrel Monkeys, a species endemic to Mamiraua.
It was a drizzling on and off the next morning during breakfast, but it cleared up before our outing. Our boat pilots Manoel and Isaquel took us out to a trail—it was the only accessible land at that time. Along the trail we saw Scarlet-crowned Barbets, Mealy Amazons showing their white orbital skin, Plumbeous Antbirds, Chestnut-eared Aracaris, White-chinned Jacamars and a pair of Pygmy Kingfishers. We did lunch, then spent the afternoon on the Apara Channel, going further past where we had gone the afternoon before. While we were cruising along, we heard the high thin, descending whistle of Wattled Curassow, one of our primary targets at Mamiraua. We approached the bird, but it flushed before we could lay eyes on it. Not long after we heard another bird and that one stuck around long enough for us to see it through a tiny window in the trees. Maravihla! Festive Amazons gathered at the treetops as we motored back for dinner. After dinner, Manoel and Isaquel took us out for a night trip. With the help of our thermal scopes we found Bamboo Rats, a couple Prehensile-tailed Porcupines, Boat-billed Herons and roosting Gray-cowled Wood-Rails.
Our last full day at Mamiraua, we birded through the flooded forest from the big canoe. At the forest edge we called in both Zimmer’s and Straight-billed Woodcreepers—a nice comparison of two very similar species. Once in the forest we saw Chestnut, and Ringed Woodpeckers, Spotted Puffbird and some animated Sunbitterns vocalizing from some logs. We had another wonderful buffet lunch, then spent the afternoon canoeing around Lago Amana looking somewhat desperately for the White Uakaris, which had evaded us somehow up until that point. We searched all afternoon and basically gave up as it was getting dark out, but just then, Manoel spotted some from across the lake and we watched them foraging in the twilight. Great save by Manoel!
We had our final breakfast at Mamiraua, then shuttled across to the mothership, Dorinha, our mobile hotel, restaurant and floating canopy tower for the remainder of the trip. Leaving Mamiraua, we made a couple stops along the Rio Japura, finding Red-and-white Spinetails in some low flooded shrubs, then Island Streaked Flycatcher and Pearly-breasted Conebill in some river edge Cecropias... Cecropia humboldtiana to be specific. The rest of the afternoon we motored north towards Reserva Amana through some narrow channels. We stopped briefly at the community of Repartimento where we saw Little Cuckoo, Little Woodpecker, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Blueish-gray Saltators, and some Barred Antshrikes. We reached the community of Ubim at Lago Amana after dark.
Early the next morning, our local guides Nego and Wigson picked us up and we canoed to the start of the Bengala Trail. Along the way in the Igapo (blackwater flooded forest) we had outstanding views of Kawall’s Amazons at the top of a nearby tree, some Black-chinned Antbirds at the water’s edge, a Yellow-olive Flatbill constructing a nest, a Striped Woodcreeper up close, and a Parrot Snake slithering through the trees. Along the trail we saw Amazonian Black-throated Trogon, a sneaky Ringed Antpipit, White-fronted Nunbirds, and we flushed a Gray-winged Trumpeter that was on the trail. Right at our turnaround spot Bret called in a Chestnut-bellied Gnateater, which shot in and sat right in front of us, flaring its bright white head plumes. In the afternoon we did a canoe trip through the Igapo and encountered a pair of Chestnut-headed Nunlets, another important target of the tour! They foraged in the dense vine tangles along with Yellow-olive Flatbills and Amazonian Black-Tyrants. Later, we encountered a noisy troop of Golden-backed Uakaris leaping through the trees.
Our second full day at Amana, we canoed up to the Cujubim Trail, where we saw Blue-capped Manakins, Yellow-browed Antbirds, a young male Black-necked Red Cotinga, White-lored Tyrannulet in the scope, Rufous-tailed Flatbills, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, and a Rufous-tailed Xenops in a mixed feeding flock. Bret called it down from the canopy and it came down almost to eye level. The trail looped back to the canoes and as we were getting ready to leave, we heard the scream of a Giant River Otter from downstream. I played a recording and within a few seconds there were five Giant Otters sticking their heads out of the water and snarling at us! Our boat pilot who was already in the canoe must have been within three feet of them. We headed back to the Dorinha, and on the way we spooked a pair of Spectacled Owls that were roosting along the creek. We then saw a Black-crested Antshrike before we got caught in a rainstorm before reaching the Dorinha. We had lunch, then we set off for another leisurely afternoon canoe ride through the flooded forest, getting great looks at another Zimmer’s Woodcreeper and more Golden-backed Uakaris. We toured around the community of Ubim and enjoyed a flute concert from the school kids. That evening the crew prepared us a wonderful churrasco of Tambaqui, a true Amazon specialty fish, and we celebrated Carol’s birthday.
Before leaving Amana, we birded again behind the community of Ubim, where we saw Mustached Wrens, Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher and some White-collared Swifts mixed in with smaller Chaeturas. As we were saying our goodbyes to the folks at Ubim, one of the young guys called us over to the soccer field where he had seen some Black Titi Monkeys. They were still there when we arrived, feeding on some low Inga trees. We watched them for several minutes as they ate, unafraid, then we returned to the Dorinha to begin the long ride back towards Tefe. After lunch we convened on the top deck to bird along the Parana Tambaqui. It was nice and cloudy, which kept bird activity going. Some of the new birds for us included Black-capped Donacobius at the water’s edge and a striking male Plum-throated Cotinga next to some Bare-necked Fruitcrows in the crown of a dead tree. A Slate-colored Hawk sailed across the river right at eye level, too. In the late afternoon, we decided to stop at a narrower creek and get out in the canoes. We called in a pair of Orange-fronted Plushcrowns that zipped back and forth over our canoes. A Pale-legged Hornero posed nicely on an open log. We then got a vocal response from Chestnut-capped Puffbird, which took a while to finally show. I could see it with the thermal scope –a white dot deep within a vine tangle, but it was too buried in there to see with the naked eye. Finally, the bird shot into view and sat for everyone to see. Yipee! Before returning to the Dorinha, we watched Chapman's, Gray-rumped and Short-tailed Swifts circling overhead.
We motored on throughout the night, then anchored at a river island across from Tefe, ready for another fun day of birding. We started out from the top deck at the downstream end of the island, where we saw Lesser Wagtail Tyrants at eye level, Orange-headed Tanagers, White-bellied, Yellow-chinned and Dark-breasted Spinetails, Lesser Horneros, and White-throated Kingbirds. We then canoed to another point further upstream on the island and walked around in the Cecropia forest. On the mudflats were Collared Plovers and a Solitary Sandpiper, already back from its breeding grounds up north. In the forest we pulled in Castelnau’s Antshrikes, Brownish and Small-billed Elaenias, some fly-by Chestnut-fronted Macaws, a Fuscous Flycatcher, Orange-backed Troupial, Masked Yellowthroat, both Bicolored and Pearly-breasted Conebills, and Olive-spotted Hummingbirds. Back on the Dorinha, we pulled up to a flowering tree that was attracting both Black-throated Mangoes and Blue-chinned Sapphires. As lunchtime approached, we crossed from the muddy Rio Solimoes to the blackwater Rio Tefe, reaching the community of Tauary in the Tefe National Forest by late afternoon. Emerson the local guide met us, and we hiked back into the forest behind the community. It was getting dark out, but with the heat scope we found several birds beginning to roost, including a Bar-breasted Piculet peeking out of its nickel-sized nest cavity, a female Blue-crowned Manakin, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Screaming Piha, and a White-fronted Nunbird. We also saw Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, but it didn’t stick around in the open for very long. We had a late dinner back at the Dorinha.
We birded the same trail behind Tauary, with Emerson, the following day. Early on, we saw Gilded Barbet, Waved Woodpecker, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Blue-crowned Trogon, and a troop of Red-capped Mustached Tamarins. Fabulous. Further along, we came across an army ant swarm with White-throated and Sooty Antbirds attending it. We watched them for several minutes as they pounced to the ground to capture prey escaping from the swarming ants. We then came across an understory flock with Elegant Woodcreeper and Madeira Stipplethroat. After that we found a canopy flock with Green-and-gold Tanager, Mournful Long-tailed Woodcreeper, Wing-barred Piprites and Dusky-capped Greenlet. A Bronzy Jacamar landed on an open perch momentarily, while a Sclater’s Antwren moved through the treetops. On our way back, we called in another Chestnut-bellied Gnateater that was vocalizing spontaneously. Both male and female showed this time. We returned to the boat, then in the afternoon, Francisco the beekeeper at Tauary showed us his extensive collection of stingless bee hives. We sampled the honey and royal jelly, which gave us all an energy boost. We then left Tauary and motored back north on the Rio Tefe. As it was getting dark out, we witnessed a huge flock of Southern Martins—tens of thousands of them coming down to roost on the river islands.
We spent the morning at Arraia birding around the village second growth with Edson, the local guide. It was fairly quiet, but we saw a few good things, including Coppery Titi Monkeys, Bar-breasted Piculet, Amazonian Scrub Flycatcher, a Pygmy Antwren at eye level, and a Rufous-thighed Kite, a migrant from SE Brazil, soaring overhead. In the afternoon we went out on the canoes on the creek behind the community, where we eventually saw Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant (after considerable effort!), a super close Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Straight-billed Woodcreeper and several close Chaetura swifts coming down to drink. We had our final dinner with the crew up on the top deck as we approached Tefe.
We squeezed one more morning of birding in before our flight back to Manaus. Some taxis picked us up and we drove out to Ramal 007, about a half hour south of Tefe. It turned out to be a great morning. The highlight of the morning was watching a group of Buffy Saki Monkeys lounging in the treetops. This is a species few people have seen. In fact, our photos were the first for iNaturalist! We saw a number of new trip birds, including Chestnut-tailed Antbird, Blue-cheeked Jacamar, Fulvous-crested Tanager, a Yellow-margined Flycatcher at eye level, a brief Gould’s Jewelfront, Needle-billed Hermit, Inambari Woodcreeper, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant and Slender-footed Tyrannulet. We tried to bring in a Brown-banded Puffbird, but it kept on overshooting us and landing out of view. We headed back to the Dorinha, packed up, said goodbyes to the crew, then left for the airport for our flight to Manaus. We had our final dinner with Junior, the owner of the Dorinha, then left for the airport for our flights home, wrapping up another terrific Field Guides Amazon adventure.
Bret and I would like to thank Ruth in our office for tying up all the logistics, all the cooks, boatmen, and staff at Mamiraua, and the crew on the Dorinha, who took such good care of us during our time in Brazil. We’d like to thank you all for joining us—see you again on the next Field Guides adventure!
Mammals
Proboscis Bat (Rhynchonycteris naso) These were lined up on the trunks at Mamiraua.
Greater Bulldog Bat (Noctilio leporinus) The giant rusty fishing bats that were hunting over the water at Mamiraua.
Avila-Pires Saddleback Tamarin (Saguinus fuscicollis avilapiresi) A few were mixed in with a troop of Red-capped Mustached Tamarins behind Tefe.
Red-capped Mustached Tamarin (Saguinus mystax pileatus) We had great looks behind the community of Arraia and also behind Tefe.
Guianan Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri sciureus) Seen at Amana and Mamiraua.
Golden-backed Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri ustus) Seen on the south bank of the Amazon around Tefe.
Black-headed Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri vanzolinii) We had numerous encounters of this endemic primate at Mamiraua.
Black Titi (Cheracebus lugens) According to iNaturalist, this is the species we saw at Ubim.
Coppery Titi (Plecturocebus cupreus) Seen at Arraia.
Colombian Red Howler (Alouatta seniculus) Common though tough to see at Mamiraua.
Buffy Saki (Pithecia albicans) One of the wildlife highlights of the trip.
Golden-brown Uacari (Cacajao malanocephalus) We encountered these shy primates a number of times at Ubim. Though they didn’t linger in view for very long, we could see their rusty flanks and bulbous tails as they sped through the treetops.
White Uakari (Cacajao calvus calvus) After two full days of searching we finally found a troop at Mamiraua, thanks to Manoel, the boatman for spotting them!
Brown Capuchin (Sapajus apella) Encountered regularly at Mamiraua.
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus variegatus) We saw a number of these after the rain cleared at Mamiraua.
Southern Amazon Red Squirrel (Sciurus spadiceus) Seen at Arraia and behind Tefe.
Amazon Bamboo Rat (Dactylomys dactylinus) Seen at night at Mamiraua.
Ferreira's Spiny Tree Rat (Mesomys hispidus) The smaller arboreal rats we saw at Mamiraua.
Long-tailed Porcupine (Coendou longicaudatus) We found a few during our nocturnal outings at Mamiraua.
Amazon River Dolphin (Inia geoffrensis) This is one of our best tours for seeing Amazon River Dolphins! We saw them almost every day.
Tucuxi (Sotalia fluviatilis) The smaller dolphins with more pronounced dorsal fins we saw along the larger rivers
Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) Certainly one of the mammal highlights of the trip and one we were not expecting!
Herps
Amazon Pygmy Gecko (Pseudogonatodes guianensis) This tiny gecko is one of the smallest of all reptiles. We saw one at Arraia.
South American Spotted Skink (Copeoglossum nigripunctatum) Seen on a tree trunk at Arraia.
Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) Seen along one of the channels at Mamiraua
Giant Parrot Snake (Leptophis ahaetulla) This is the snake we saw up in the tree in the flooded forest near Ubim.
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/559590
You can see my iNaturalist report of non-avian taxa at this link: https://www.inaturalist.org/projects/field-guides-birding-tours-brazil-s-japura-and-tefe-rivers-mamiraua-amana-and-the-unknown
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/gr326TRIPLIST.pdf
-- Micah and Bret