July 20-30, 2026 with Willy Perez
I love this tour through the cloud forest in the northwest of the Andes, because it takes me back to the place where I grew up and where I feel most at home. The cloud forest is one of the most biologically diverse areas of Ecuador, known for its dense forests, high levels of rainfall, dramatic mountains, and extraordinary variety of plants and animals, especially birds. To me, the cloud forest is not just a beautiful place. It is part of my life, my memories, and who I am, so this trip was no exception.
Starting in Quito, we couldn’t miss the chance to visit one of the closest highland reserves along our route, so we spent our first morning at Zuroloma. The hummingbirds were incredibly active, and one of the highlights for us was the rare endemic Black-breasted Puffleg, which we saw exceptionally well. The morning continued with a great selection of species, including Sword-billed Hummingbird, Equatorial and Chestnut-naped Antpittas, and the colourful Hooded and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers.
Birding at our first lodge, Guaycapi, was dazzling, with stunning tanagers, a great selection of hummingbirds, and some of the most enigmatic birds of the Chocó bioregion. The incredible Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan and Toucan Barbet were both seen from the dining room; what a way to start our stay!
We used Guaycapi as a base to explore several nearby locations. The next day, we headed lower in elevation to the Mashpi-Amagusa Reserve. We had to leave early to arrive before the birds really got going, and it was well worth the effort. This reserve holds an incredible diversity of birds, including some rare and very range-restricted species.
The first birds to appear with daylight were Zeledon's Antbird, the noisy Ochre-breasted Tanager, Bay Wren, and many others that came in to feed on moths. Some strategically placed bananas attracted several tanagers, including Moss-backed Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager, and the superb Glistening-green Tanager. A short walk along the road gave us scope views of White-tipped Sicklebill, Indigo Flowerpiercer, and Rose-faced Parrots.
That same day, we visited Sacha Guatusa, another reserve lower down the slopes, where we had excellent views of Orange-fronted Barbet and Gray-and-gold Tanager. At the group's request, we also squeezed in a visit to an Oilbird roosting cave and we had great success, with many Oilbirds sitting on ledges of rock.
Our outing to the Cock-of-the-Rock lek at the famous Angel Paz Reserve was also very productive. Several males were displaying, and we were delighted when Yellow-breasted Antpitta and Rufous-breasted Antthrush also showed up. The upper Tandayapa Ridge was incredible too, particularly for the very rare White-faced Nunbird, which we saw twice. Unbelievable!
Our two nights at Maquipucuna were a very different experience. Being completely immersed in the stunning forest and falling asleep to the sound of the river made us feel as though we were truly isolated from the outside world. We explored some of the trails, but the first thing we did each morning was visit the hide to watch the moths, which in turn attracted a wonderful selection of birds. Tawny-breasted Flycatcher, several species of woodcreepers, and the incredibly elusive Esmeraldas Antbird were among the highlights. Another little adventure was walking to my house on our first night, where we found both Mottled and Black-and-white Owls. On our final morning at Maquipucuna, we headed back towards my house and had some great encounters with Tiny Hawk, and Crested, and Wattled Guans.
Our next destination was Sachatamia Lodge, where we spent our final three nights. The lodge is perfectly located for visiting several excellent birding sites, especially at lower elevations. The gardens were full of stunning hummingbirds and provided plenty of opportunities to explore.
One of the most remarkable experiences here was our visit to the Long-wattled Umbrellabird lek. At first, the birds were not particularly active, but eventually several males arrived, and we couldn't believe how such a black bird could be so incredibly fancy and beautiful at the same time! Several males performed courtship displays, with noisy wing flaps and dazzling wattles. It was a full show and an unforgettable experience.
Our full day in the lowlands was equally exciting. From the tower at Silanche, we came face to face with Pale-mandibled Aracari, Chocó Toucan, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Blue-tailed Trogon, and several species of dacnises and honeycreepers.
Our visit to the Fruti Tour trail, where we met Marcelo, the owner, was great fun, and the whole birding experience was superb. Here we found Bronzy Hermit, Purple-crowned Fairy, Red-headed Barbet, and Brown Wood-Rail, among many other species.
On the last day of the tour, we visited the famous town of Mindo, where we found a Coopmans's Elaenia. Another request from the group was Sunbittern, so we made a special visit to a site where one was nesting. It was a lovely way to finish our morning around the Mindo area.
We then returned to our hotel in Quito, where we still had some time for a final bit of birding in the gardens. We added Vermilion Flycatcher and even the pretty Scrub Tanager to our list before packing up.
Our farewell dinner was very special. We looked back on all the fantastic moments we had shared and remembered the incredible birds we had seen along the way. The lodges were perfect, the food was delicious, and the weather behaved beautifully throughout the trip.
I really enjoyed this tour, but most of all, I enjoyed birding with such a great group of people. Everyone shared knowledge, stories, and great birds with each other. I loved the team spirit within the group, it made my life as a guide easy, pleasant, and enjoyable.
Thank you all for being such a wonderful group, and a special thank you to Edgar for his sharp driving skills and, of course, his equally sharp eyes!
Until the next adventure…
Other Wildlife:
Central American Agouti (Dasyprocta punctata)
Red-tailed Squirrel (Sciurus granatensis)
Western dwarf squirrel (Microsciurus mimulus)
Mantled howler monkey (Alouatta palliata)
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/568944
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/ems26TRIPLIST.pdf
-- Hugs from Dorset, Willy