February 1-21, 2026 with Terry Stevenson
Our February 2026 tour to North India followed our well tried and tested route, visiting the famous tiger reserve at Ranthambhore, the wetlands of Bharatpur, Corbett National Park, the Himalayan foothills around Nainital, and for some serious class and culture, Agra, home to the palaces of Akbar the Great, Agra Fort, and the ethereal Taj Mahal.
To be honest it was not the best start when dense fog delayed our train out of Delhi by three hours, making the birding extremely difficult as we headed slowly south towards Ranthambhore. However, the day was not totally without birds and we found about 30 species, including Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon, Red-wattled Lapwing, Black-headed Ibis, colorful White-throated Kingfishers and Rose-ringed Parakeets, Long-tailed Shrike, Red-vented Bulbul, and at various railways stations, flocks of both Common and Bank mynas.
Despite the slow start, we awoke the following morning perfectly placed and with two full days to explore the dry wooded landscape at Ranthambhore – Tiger country! We were not disappointed, first seeing a female, and then two magnificent huge males as they emerged from a reedbed and walked right in front of our vehicle. Just amazing, and fantastic for the photographers too! But tigers are not the only mammals here, and we all enjoyed good close encounters with Rhesus Monkey, Bengal Sacred Langur, Northern Palm Squirrel, Ruddy Mongoose, Eurasian Wild Pig, Chital (Spotted Deer), Sambar, Nilgai, and Chinkara (Indian Gazelle). The birding was fantastic too, with great looks at gorgeous Indian Peafowl, Painted Spurfowl and Painted Sandgrouse. By the lakes, we found Indian Thick-knee, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Bronze-winged Jacana, a flock of 20 Indian Skimmer (somewhat out of range here), River Tern, Asian Openbill, Asian Woolly-necked and Painted storks, and Dalmatian Pelican. Along the cliffs, we found the endangered Indian Vulture, while raptors in the wooded areas included Crested Serpent-Eagle and White-eyed Buzzard. After first hearing their calls, it took some time to find Coppersmith Barbet and the rare White-naped Woodpecker, while colorful Plum-headed Parakeets were far more obvious as they perched in the bare tree-tops. Other species we all enjoyed here included Indian Cuckooshrike, White-browed Fantail, White-bellied Drongo, Bay-backed Shrike, Rufous Treepie (which fed from our hands at the ranger stations), Asian Tit, Large Gray Babbler, Brahminy Starling, and Purple Sunbird.
Leaving Ranthambhore behind, we then drove north to Bharatpur and the famous wetlands now known as Keoladeo National Park. It was a wonderful stay in this area, quietly traveling between the flooded pools by battery-powered rickshaw, or on foot. Fifteen species of waterfowl were seen, including Bar-headed Goose, Cotton Pygmy-Goose, Indian Spot-billed and Ferruginous ducks, Gray-headed Swamphen, White-breasted Waterhen, massive Sarus Cranes, White-tailed Lapwing, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Oriental Darter, Little and Indian cormorants, Red-naped Ibis, and 8 species of herons and egrets. Around the pools are several more wooded areas, and here we enjoyed Dusky Eagle-Owl, Spotted Owlet, Indian Gray Hornbill, Indian Roller, and Indian Golden Oriole. One morning we made a visit to nearby Bund Baretha, adding Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Orange-headed Thrush, and Red Avadavat. A large roost of Indian Flying Fox was an added bonus, but we then returned to the main reserve, for more close-up waterfowl and great photographic opportunities in the evening light.
It’s only a couple of hours direct drive from Bharatpur to Agra, but we stopped along the way to see the magnificent palaces of Akbar the Great – one of India’s greatest-ever rulers, with palaces that live up to what one would expect of a man of his stature! Agra is also home to one of the world’s most famous monuments – the Taj Mahal – and we made an afternoon visit here to catch the light enhancing the giant dome, minarets, and perfect proportions of this simply magnificent building.
Also near to Agra is the Chambal River, one of the cleanest rivers in north India and home to giant Gharials (fish-eating crocodiles), Ganges River Dolphin, and of course, birds. A boat trip here gave us nice looks at Lesser Whistling-Duck, Great Thick-knee, River Lapwing and Black-bellied Tern, and we then had lunch in the garden of a nearby lodge, while watching Brown-headed Barbet, Indian Gray Hornbill, and thanks to our local guide, a roosting Brown Boobook.
From Agra, we took the highway north and spent a night in Delhi before continuing to Corbett National Park the following day. We had four nights in this area – three outside the park, where we were free to walk around birding, and one in the park, where, due to the presence of Asian Elephant and Tiger (we saw both!) we were largely restricted to birding from vehicles. Once again, the birding was truly fabulous, with just some of the impressive list including Kalij Pheasant, Red Junglefowl, Black Francolin, Crested Treeswift, Red-headed Vulture, Himalayan Griffon, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Pallas’s and Lesser Fish-eagles, Jungle Owlet, Oriental Pied-Hornbill, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Crested Kingfisher, Lineated Barbet, Brown-capped and Gray-capped pygmy woodpeckers, Greater Flameback, Streak-throated and Gray-headed woodpeckers, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Common Iora, White-throated Fantail, Hair-crested Drongo, Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail, Ashy, Black, Red-whiskered, and Himalayan bulbuls, Whistler’s and Gray-hooded warblers, Black-throated Tit, Indian White-eye, Black-chinned Babbler, Puff-throated Babbler, White-crested, Rufous-chinned and White-throated laughingthrushes, Velvet-fronted and Chestnut-bellied nuthatches, an adult Brown Dipper with two juveniles, the rarely seen Long-billed Thrush, Small and Rufous-bellied niltava’s, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher, Plumbeous and White-capped redstarts, and Crimson and Black-throated sunbirds. Despite all these though, there was one species which really stood out – feeding in the river near Ramnagar, were an absolutely fabulous close pair of Ibisbill – sole member of the family Ibidorhynchidae.
Moving on, we then travelled east and higher into the Himalayan foothills and our base at Nainital. This old British hill-station was the former home of the famous hunter, conservationist, and writer Jim Corbett. As with many of the colonial British of that era, to enjoy the best of both seasons Jim had both winter and summer homes, and we made a short stop at the lower one which is now a small but interesting museum.
Each day we set out to bird different areas and altitudes, each giving us a slightly different mix of birds. Around Nainital, situated on the higher slopes with open rocky areas and isolated patches of tall trees, we found Greater Yellownape, Black-headed Jay, Gray Treepie, Green-backed Tit, Himalayan Prinia, Buff-barred Warbler, Black-throated Tit, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned laughingthrushes, Rufous Sibia, Blue-winged Minla, White-tailed Nuthatch, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, White-collared Blackbird, Slaty-backed Forktail, Himalayan Bluetail, Blue-fronted and Blue-capped redstarts, and Yellow-breasted Greenfinch. The lower elevations at Sattal and Chafi are more forested, and provided us with good looks at Asian Barred Owlet, Great Barbet, Rufous Woodpecker, Slaty-headed Parakeet, Red-billed Blue-Magpie, Mountain Bulbul, Lemon-rumped Warbler, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, and Common Rosefinch.
Bajoon (formerly known as the Mongoli Trail) is also forested and good for Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, Black-faced Warbler, and Striated Laughingthrush. Most special here though, are the large areas of dense undergrowth – ideal habitat for Red-billed Leiothrix, Scaly-breasted Cupwing, and Chestnut-headed Tesia. There’s also a good chance of picking up something unexpected from higher in the Himalaya’s, and this year we did just that, getting great looks at a female Scarlet Finch!
Leaving the north behind, we then had a travel day as we returned for a night in Delhi, followed by a morning at nearby Sultanpur Jheel. This wetland has only recently become a national park, and very much deserves this new status, as it compares favorably with Keoladeo. The numbers and variety of waterbirds can be astonishing, and this year we enjoyed eleven species of duck and geese, two very unexpected Water Rails, an equally unexpected Baillon’s Crake, eight species of migrant sandpipers (with Temminck’s Stint being a highlight), over 200 breeding Painted Storks, Indian Spotted, Greater Spotted and Imperial eagles, Oriental Skylark, Delicate, Yellow-bellied and Ashy prinias, Striated Babbler, and the rather local Sind Sparrow. All in all, it was quite simply a fabulous last morning.
We then returned to our hotel, gave a super big thank you to local guide Rakesh Sharma and our drivers, who had all looked after us so safely and efficiently throughout the tour. With rooms available until our final departures, we all had plenty time to shower, change, and repack. And then a final checklist, dinner, and a chance to share our favorite memories of the tour – be it Ibisbill, Tiger, or just the buzz of traveling in north India!
Our next tour to North India runs January 30 – February 19, 2028!
Mammals and Reptiles
Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus medius) About 200 at Keoladeo, 150 at Bund Baretha, and 60 at Chambal Safari Lodge.
Rhesus Macaque (Macaca mulatta) Common and widespread everywhere with a total of about 750.
Bengal Sacred Langur (Presbytis entellus) This common and attractive monkey was seen in all areas except around Agra; in all we saw about 260.
Northern Palm Squirrel (Funambulus pennanti) Common and widespread on the plains; in all we saw about 110.
Ganges River Dolphin (Platanista gangetica) Comparatively good looks at one on our boat trip on the Chambal River.
Golden Jackal (Canis aureus) Singles at the Chambal River, and Corbett NP.
Yellow-throated Marten (Martes flavigula) Good looks at this very attractive marten at the bottom of the trail at Bajoon.
Ruddy Mongoose (Urva smithii) Two right next to our vehicle at Ranthambhore.
Tiger (Panthera tigris) First we saw a female walking through the dry reedbeds at Ranthambhore, she then disappeared but two large males (brothers) emerged and walked right out in the open in front of us. Later (at Corbett NP) some of us saw another female walking along a track – just fabulous!
Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) Three and then 4 at Corbett NP.
Eurasian Wild Pig (Sus scrofa) Two singles at Ranthambhore, and about 10 at Corbett NP.
Himalayan Red Muntjac (Muntiacus aureus) Also known as Barking Deer, we saw 4 at Corbett NP, and 1 on the way to Nainital.
Chital (Axis axis) Also known as Spotted Deer, they were very common on the plains (about 650), and then at Corbett NP (90+).
Sambar (Rusa unicolor) About 100 at Ranthambhore, and 7 at Corbett NP.
Nilgai (Boselaphus tragocamelus) Five at Ranthambhore, about 70 at Keoladeo, and 7 at Sultanpur Jheel.
Chinkara (Gazella bennettii) Also known as Indian Gazelle, we saw 3 at Ranthambhore.
Marsh Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) Three at Ranthambhore, 15 in the Chambal River, and 1 at Corbett NP.
Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus) We saw about 30 of these huge fish-eating crocodiles in the Chambal River.
Indian Flap-shell Turtle (Lissemys punctata) One at Ranthambhore, and 2 at Sultanpur Jheel.
Indian Soft-shelled Turtle (Nilssonia gangetica) Four at Keoladeo, and about 10 along the Chambal River.
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: https://ebird.org/tripreport/578112
You can download a combined PDF of this page and the eBird report at this link: https://fieldguides.com/triplists/ind26TRIPLIST.pdf
-- Terry (aka Honeyguide)