June 7-25, 2025 with Phil Gregory & Davka
The first post-covid run of the Field Guides Mongolia tour began in Ulan Bataar, a city fast growing and developing and now plagued by serious traffic problems. Sunday jun 8 We made a morning visit to the the new Chinggis Khan museum, which was greatly enhanced by an art exhibition "The Archaeology of Radiant Light" by a well-known Korean video expert Lee Lee Nam. It was closed when we arrived and we were not allowed in, but we happened to meet the artist coming out, whom I recognised from his photo, and he very kindly gave us permission to go inside and enjoy a fantastic installation with many really beautiful video artworks. Totally unexpected and a real bonus. Shopping for cashmere followed at a department store, one of the former soviet monoliths but now opened up and a good place to browse.
That afternoon we went out to Songino and what was called Swan or UB Lake, now being marred by much development and ditch digging all around, plus a gale force wind today. Still, we managed to see beautiful Bar-headed Geese, Ruddy Shelduck, Whooper Swans with cygnets, Gadwall and Garganey, then splendid Azure Tit and White-crowned Penduline Tit at the riparian section, plus a singing male Long-tailed Rosefinch.
Mon June 9 saw us foray locally to Zaisan dry valley and cliffs, where Dusky Warbler was common, a single Thick-billed Warbler showed well, Cinereous Vulture made its first showing, a male Siberian Rubythroat sang nicely and Rock Sparrow was bathing in the stream. Jaden alone saw White-backed Woodpecker. Butterflies were also in evidence, not always the case on this tour, and we found the I-naturalist Seek App invaluable both for them and the plants, many of us getting well into using it hereafter and adding a nice new dimension to the trip. Getting in and out of UB was a pain, but seeing the soviet era power plants with their decidedly ramshackle pipe insulation was novel!
Tues June 10 Heading out towards Terelj took some 4 hours via steppe country, with Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush showing very nicely and our first Mongolian Larks. We stayed at the remote Khadag ger camp deep into the great boreal forest, the first of many on the tour, but here we unexpectedly had the newly built cabins not ger tents. Exploring by the Tuul River we saw our first Demoiselle Crane, and then some Hill Pigeons on cliff faces as we scanned for Eagle Owl, with Black-faced Bunting in the birch scrub and White-cheeked Starling nesting out in some old poplar trees.
Next day Wed June 11 was a 0300 start as we wanted to get up to Shar Guy where Black-billed Capercaillie had been busy displaying recently. One car got into a deep bog hole and stuck fast, but our enterprising drivers had it all under control and it was quickly pulled out using a canvas strap. Our group took it slow up the slope into larch forest, stopping by some improvised branch blinds, whilst 4 of us went further up playing the call of a displaying male, and coming across a female Black-billed Capercaillie which flew off and circled back towards where our group were waiting- they got nice views of it perched, so we were very fortunate and nailed a mega bird. Chinese Bush Warbler proved obliging in some bushes here too and Pine Bunting showed well.
One curious find was what looked to be a large albino Domestic Rabbit by some farm stockade, pure white with pink eyes, quite what it was doing here I have no idea!
A drive back via the higher ridges was good for butterflies plus our first Lammergeier coming right over.
Then it was the drive across to Terelj and Tumen Khaan ger camp for 2 nights in actual gers for the first time, a new experience for most. They are quite roomy but always have small doorways for heat conservation, plus two or three beds, a table and maybe a chair plus an iron wood burning stove that really throws out the heat, but burns larch wood awful fast!
Birding down at Tuul River Park was quiet, though Mandarin Duck at a nest site was a surprise and gets flagged on eBird as being feral, actually not the case here. Common Redstart was nice, also Marsh and Willow Tit. Both Common and Oriental Cuckoo were vocal here. Our driver rescued a family who had got their saloon car stuck in the stream here, and happily they were able to continue.
Thurs Jun 12 Tumen Khaan area gave Jaden Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker on one of his forays, whilst we got Red-throated and Eye-browed Thrush plus Brown Shrike before heading to Terelj River Park, with many fewer visitors today, with Black Woodpecker and Lesser-spotted Woodpecker as nice additions, plus Taiga and Asian Brown Flycatcher and Eurasian Nuthatch.
The afternoon got rained out despite us driving up atop the ridges trying to get out of it. That night some of us went out again after Ural Owl which we had heard the previous evening, but it had moved and only a few trekked to the meadows area where we had good views of it calling with another replying, and Eurasian Woodcock roding (display flighting) overhead.
Fri Jun 13 We tried at Jaden's Three-toed Woodpecker site and saw the marks they make on the trees, but no birds, the it was time to leave for Hustai NP, sadly having to negotiate the traffic in UB once again. The afternoon was sunny and cool, and we had great views of Mongolian Marmot, Przewalski's Horses and some fine Red Deer stags, plus much better Mongolian Larks and brief views of Saker Falcon whilst Mongolian Gazelle was a nice find here.
Sat Jun 14 Exploring Hustai at Baishant dry valley and the Tuul River floodplain, with good views of Mongolian jirds by the camp, Mongolian Lark, Isabelline Wheatear, Upland Buzzard and Golden Eagle. That afternoon some spectacular scenery at Ikhenus valley and Usan Ridge, and lovely herds of Przewalski's Horse grazing, there are some 350 now in the park and they look to be be self-sustaining. Great views of Lammergeier too, and a lovely female Amur Falcon near a nest site.
Sunday Jun 15 Leaving Hustai with good Saker Falcon on the way out, then up to Tsagaan (White) Lake where water levels were quite high this year. Star birds here included Swan Goose, White-naped Crane, Bearded Reedling, Pallas's Reed Bunting, Paddyfield Warbler and Eastern Marsh Harrier plus the first Mongolian gulls. Next came a 2 hour drive to Ugii Nuur and the ger camp by the lake, now getting much more developed with new camps all over the place but still of great interest. Asian Short-toed Lark made an appearance as did White-tailed Eagle.
Mon Jun 16 Ugii Nuur early morning was good with 8 summer plumage Asian Dowitchers on show for those who came out before breakfast. The drive down the lake side gave a splendid Relict Gull right by the track for amazingly good views, one of the great prizes of the trip, and an adult summer Pallas's Gull was nearby, a really striking bird, along with much better views of Mongolian Gull and lots of Swan Goose. A perched immature eagle was the subject of an informative debate about what it was, and my devil's advocacy won out as it was an immature Pallas's Fishing Eagle, now a rare bird in Mongolia. Red-crested Pochard and Eared Grebe were new, and Jaden found Stejneger's Scoter just as we were about to leave, a nice finish to a productive morning. We were driving down to the old capital of Kharkorin for the night, but found Pere David's Snowfinch and Mongolian Short-toed Lark before we left. A temple visit here was a cultural diversion, and some folks got to hold up a Golden Eagle which was on show for visitors.
Tues Jun 17 saw us visit the Orkhon river valley near Kharkorin where Black Stork was a nice find, then it was over the Takhilt wetland and Khogno Khan ger camp right up against some cliffs. Cinereous (Black) Vultures gave good views, White-naped and Demoiselle Cranes showed well as did summer plumage Arctic Loon, but shorebirds and wagtails were non-existent this year. An evening foray got us Isabelline Shrike and Pied Wheatear, with Eurasian Nightjar calling distantly. Davka, Jaden and I went out again after Eurasian Eagle Owls, which we heard calling but staying out of sight, but a surprise Eurasian Scops Owl showed amazingly well and was a lifer for the two young guys.
Wed Jun 18 gave us great views of Daurian Partridge on two occasions near the camp, so everyone got to see it, and we had a farewell look at the lake and wetland with our only Pale Martins of the trip, plus some nests of Cinereous Vulture nearby before heading back to Ulan Bataar ready for the long 11-hours drive down to the Gobi, necessary this year as Dzalanzadgad airport is closed for renovation.
Thursday Jun 19 UB to Govin Uguu camp near Yol Am, a very long drive over somewhat variable roads with quite a few potholes, and just a few incidental species en route.
Friday Jun 20 An early start at 0400 to go up to Yolyn Am, a beautiful montane valley in the Eastern Altai. A lucky find was a herd of Argali in the headlights pre-dawn, great as we had missed this at Hustai. Scanning in the freezing cold at dawn proved fruitless for Altai Snowcock, though both Davka and Jaden had glimpses of things scuttling away on the peaks, and a few Ibex were dotted about. The walk down the valley was splendid, just gorgeous scenery and some excellent birds- lots of Himalayan Griffon soaring over, Golden Eagle, Lammergeier, a tussle with star bird Wallcreeper with the male showing nicely eventually, Brown Accentor, White-winged Snowfinch, Twite, Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch. The afternoon saw us go up Mukher Shivert dry valley at a lower altitude, with Lesser Whitethroat, very nice summer plumage Barred Warbler, a dark morph juvenile Upland Buzzard, Hill Pigeon with wild Rock Doves.
Saturday Jun 21 was Jaden's 20th birthday, so as a special present we offered an early morning pre-breakfast up at Yol Am again after snowcock. Only Davka, Jaden and I went, seeing a herd of 9 Argali again plus Ibex. Jaden found an Altai Snowcock, but I was a few metres downhill and had to run up with my scope, which he duly put on the bird but neither Davka nor I were able to see it, a large grey rock confused the issue and annoyingly we dipped- oh well, it was still a great birthday present!
We then headed to the great sand dunes of Khongoryn Els on the margins of the Gobi Desert, on rough tracks but going via a site for Little Owl and then the wonderful Mongolian Ground-Jay nearby, with a Lammergeier nest containing a nearly fledged juvenile en route. Pallas's Sandgrouse made their first appearance, as did Pied Wheatear. Black-tailed Gazelle were seen as well.
Sunday Jun 22 Early morning by Gobi Discovery camp, with thousands of Pallas's Sandgrouse flighting over calling, a wonderful spectacle, and our only Asian Desert warblers. Visited the unique saxaul forest habitat at Khongoryn, with our first Turkmenistan Short-toed Larks displaying, Steppe Grey Shrike, Long-legged Buzzard at nest, and nice Ruddy Shelducks at the wetland nearby plus the splendid immense sand dunes. That afternoon we drove to a more distant saxaul forest patch after the rare Saxaul Sparrow, again without any sign, but the landscapes in the late afternoon sun were fabulous.
Monday Jun 23 Khongoryn Els to Flaming Cliffs, where an afternoon foray out into the tall grass steppe turned up displaying Oriental Plover, a much-wanted species, and the famous dinosaur site of Flaming Cliffs was truly impressive in the late afternoon sunshine.
Tuesday Jun 24 Travel day, again going by road to Ulan Bataar as the airport at Dzalanzadgad is closed. Farewell dinner that evening and departure next day for most.
My thanks to everyone for coming, it was a varied and enjoyable trip despite the long travel days, and everyone survived the ger camps and adapted accordingly. Jaden age 19 must have wondered what he had gotten into, but we gave him free rein to wander and find his own things, and he was a terrific spotter who got us onto some great birds, grandma must have been proud.
Mongolia has outstanding scenery and we did well not just for birds but with mammals, plants and herps as well. The Seek App from i-naturalist was used by many of us and added another dimension to the trip, I know my botanical knowledge went up by leaps and bounds. Thanks to Sharon at the Field Guides Office, and to Sue and Rowan at Sicklebill Safaris who co-ordinated th whole tour with their customary patience and persistence. Mongolica did a good job for us, Prof. Gomboo the main man made us very welcome at the start and finish, and our drivers worked really hard with very long hours and distances travelled, and also became quite good at spotting birds and mammals. Davka was the local guide overall and he was both knowledgeable and helpful and knew where to find our target species, he dealt with it all with great patience and his English is steadily improving as we bombarded him with so many questions!
Mammals
Pallas's Pika, Daurian Pika Tolai Hare, Siberian Chipmunk, Mongolian Marmot, Long-tailed Ground-Squirrel, Daurian Ground-Squirrel, Eurasian Red Squirrel, Mongolian Jird, Central Middday Jird, Gobi Jerbil (deceased), Corsac Fox, Przewalski's Horse (Takhi), Western Red Deer, Eastern Roe Deer (heard), Mongolian Gazelle, Black--tailed (Goitered) Gazelle, Argali, Alpine Ibex
Herps
Siberian Wood Frog for some, Siberian Toad, Toad-headed Agama at Khongoryn, Mongolian Racerunner for some, Steppe Rat Snake (Elaphe dione).
Butterflies
A better than usual tour for butterflies with the nice weather helping, we did well up in the boreal forest zone and Donna photographed the following species:
Old World Swallowtail (no photo), Woodland Ringlet, Glanville Fritillary, Amanda's Blue, Reverdin’s Blue, Alpine Blue, Fischer’s Blue, Neolycaena davidi, Lycaena violacea (Donna only),,Lesser (Small) Bath White, Black-veined White, Small Tortoiseshell, Hungarian Glider, Hipparchia autonoe, Coenonympha amaryllis, Cabbage White, Sulphur sp.(no photo), Spinose Skipper.
I can add Marsh Fritillary and Colorado Ringlet to these, with photos on I-nat.
Link to insect photos posted to iNaturalist:
https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?iconic_taxa=Insecta&month=6&place_id=7347&subview=map&user_id=dpom&view=specie
You can see my complete trip report on eBird at this link: